The reason for the title of this chapter “Seoul, my soul” is that it is the tagline for the city of Seoul. “It signifies a city centered on its citizens, where their collective emotions and experiences create a better, more vibrant Seoul. The slogan also cleverly uses the similar pronunciation of “Seoul” and “soul” to convey the meaning of a city that can fill and move the soul of both its residents and visitors.” I think it is true so I thought it would be a good place to start my update on how things have been going since we left Japan. My trip to Kobe really helped me get through that second week in Osaka. On my second day there I had delicious Kobe beef, explored the waterfront area and got some much needed R&R. The day before we left Osaka we visited the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery Museum and it was a fun and delicious way to finish off our time in Japan.
We’ve been in Seoul now since the 7th and it has been truly lovely. It actually reminds me a lot of Tokyo although the subway system took a little more time to figure out. Seoul is peaceful and quiet and prides itself on parks and green spaces. I didn’t do a lot of research before we arrived in Seoul so our first night after Dave went to bed I started researching. I like to create a check list for every city we visit with not only sites to see but also neighborhoods, shops, restaurants, bars, libraries, grocery stores and sometimes laundromats. When you spend three weeks in a place you aren’t only going sight seeing everyday so I find it useful when getting to know a city a little bit more personally. After about an hour or so of research I was getting a little worried about why Google Maps, which is what I always use, wasn’t giving me the walking distance for any of the destinations, only public transportation. I love to walk everywhere if possible and I started think, well maybe Seoul isn’t very walkable? Finally when Google was giving me a 15 minute bus route for a destination that looked like it was across the street on the map I figured something had to be wrong. When I Googled “why doesn’t Google Maps work in Seoul?” the results explained that “South Korean law prohibits the export of high-resolution mapping data for national security reasons” and recommended two other apps to use for navigation, which I promptly downloaded, and got back on track. I also noticed that you often need the Korean name for a destination if you want one of their apps to find it so that has also been a steep learning curve. They have UBER here which is nice when you need it but the Taxis aren’t able to find our Air BnB address because it isn’t in Korean. We walk or take the subway most of the time anyway and it was good information to learn early on in our stay.
In the past week and half since we’ve been here, we visited several of the palaces, which posed the question of if Korea had Emperors like Japan did? After a quick Google search we learned, “Yes, Korea had emperors, but only for a brief period in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. King Gojong proclaimed the Korean Empire in 1897, becoming the first emperor, but was forced to abdicate in 1907, and his son, Emperor Sunjong, was the last emperor until Japan annexed Korea in 1910.” We also found that the palaces seemed to have a strong Chinese influence so I also researched that and found, “Yes, it is correct that Seoul’s palaces have significant Chinese architectural influence due to long-standing cultural exchange. While the palaces were adapted and built in unique Korean styles, they were founded on Chinese-influenced principles like Confucianism and used architectural forms and planning methods that originated in China.” What did we do before Google? Oh yeah, Encyclopedias!
On Saturday we started off the celebration of Dave’s 48th year of life with a trip to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) which separates North and South Korea and learned a lot about the cultural significances and differences between North Korea (Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) and South Korea (The Republic of Korea (ROK). There was a lot of new learning, one for me, being that they are considered two different countries. I knew that they had different politics and leaders but I thought they were both republics not countries. Which begged the question, are Republics and countries the same thing? “All republics are countries, but not all countries are republics because countries can have other forms of government, such as a monarch.” I love learning new things! We weren’t able to take many pictures when we went to Dora Observatory for security reasons but were able to take some at the Third Infiltration Tunnel on our tour. At the Dora Observatory there were signs everywhere saying that you could go to prison for three years if you took pictures but our guide did share some pictures that he was able to take before it was banned. The stark difference between the countries that you could see just from looking over the border were significant. We also learned that there are still over two million land mines in the DMZ and that if people in the DPRK get caught watching ROK dramas they could go to prison for five years. We couldn’t help but feel for the people that lived across the border and tried to put ourselves in their shoes. I can’t even imagine. It definitely makes you grateful to have been lucky enough to have been born where you were. Something that you have no control over.
On Sunday we visited the beautiful Gyeongbokgung Palace and gardens. It warmed up to 60 degrees and then was down to 40 degrees on Monday which I feel very similar to the fall weather in Minnesota, even though Seoul is further south latitudinally. The leaf peeping has continued to be in full effect here though and the sun has been out everyday, for the most part, which I feel is different from in MN. Even when it is chilly, sunshine makes a huge difference! We finished off the birthday celebration with a delicious meal of Korean BBQ on Monday, his actual birthday, at Il Pyeon Deung Sim, which is very popular in Seoul and is known for using only the top 4% of wagyu aged 21 days. Which really doesn’t mean anything to me but Dave was excited about. We feasted on tenderloin and ribeye cap with gold leaf and vegetables and Dave ended the day with a big piece of chocolate cake. I think he was happy.
Yesterday we climbed Namsan Mountain and took in the sights above the city, the city walls, the botanical garden and the N Seoul Tower. It was beautiful. We still have about a week and a half before we leave for Australia and hope to visit Bukhansan National Park next weekend. I am truly loving Seoul and going on nine weeks of the language barrier has left me feeling pretty lonely. I was talking with my friend about this and she reminded me about why it is so important, when we were teaching, to make sure that our English Language Learners were placed in classrooms with at least one other student that spoke their common language whenever possible. You need those experiences to feel connected. I learned some Japanese and have been trying to learn some Korean and am finding it to be a very challenging language for me to learn. For example, phonetically this is hello: annyeonghaseyo and this is thank you: gamsahamnida but the “g” makes a “k” sound and the “m” makes a “b” sound and oy!
I am also realizing how significant a part, connecting with the locals, has played for me during this adventure and I’m really looking forward to being able to connect again over a common language when we go to Australia. And, I’m trying to stay as present as possible, and not wish away a minute of it because I know that it is going to be a very long time until we’re able to come back to any of these places. Enjoy every minute you have with your loved ones. Sending you love wherever you are!
♥️Alison
Ps I almost forgot!!! We have a new tab on our outoftheswamlows.com website! “Dave’s Photo Gallery”. I know several of you have been asking to see more of Dave’s photography and now you can. Check it out! 😘
Kobe lunch at Kobe Beef Yakiniku Okatora Sannomiya, in Kobe. All of this, plus all you can drink, for under $50!China Town, Kobe. Fish sculpture in front of the restaurant Fish in the Forest near the waterfront in Kobe. Enjoying some of the murals. Kobe Maritime Museum and Kobe Port Tower. Meriken Park, Kobe, Japan. Kobe Port Tower. Yamazaki reminded us a lot of Kyoto.The Yamazaki Whisky Museum did not disappoint. It was fun to taste some of the different kinds that we haven’t tried before. It was a great way to say sayonara to Osaka after seven weeks in Japan!Cute mural right outside our Air BnB in the Mapo neighborhood of Seoul.World Cup commemorative sculpture in the pedestrian/ shopping area of Hongdae near our Air BnB. The ginkgo trees, albeit stinky, have beautiful leaves right now. Exploring “Piccaso Street” near Hongik University, Seoul. We haven’t seen the seasons change in ten months so brace yourself to a lot of pictures of leaves! 😉Wausan Mountain Park. “Under Stand Avenue” in the Seongsudong Neighborhood, which is known as the “Brooklyn” of Seoul. Entering Seoul Forest Park. Sculpture by Korean artist Kim Woojin. Seoul Forest is a beautiful park!Right in the city. And provided some amazing leaf peeping! The “Brooklyn” area of Seoul was really cool!There were tons of pop-ups and unique shopping experiences. Dave had to head back after that so I took the subway to Bukchon Hanok Village. Which is a very popular traditional village in Seoul. I definitely wasn’t alone, and it was cool to see!The views were pretty spectacular! Bukchon Hanok Village.After the village I walked over to the Gyeongbokgung Palace grounds and saw the Pagoda of the Gyeongcheonsa Temple.The detail on these buildings are STUNNING! It was a great day! The next day we went out to find Dave’s colocation place. The sculpture is in the Hongdae district as entitled “Night Mind.” After locating Dave’s work place we walked some of the Gyeongui Line Forest Park. This park is part of an urban regeneration project. It transformed the defunct section of Gyeongui Line into a public greenway that runs for 6.3 kilometers from Mapo-gu to Yongsan-gu.On the 11th I visited the Naksan neighborhood which is known as the “Montmarte” area of Seoul. Climbing up to the park reminded me of walking around the hilly streets of Lisbon. The views from the old fortress wall in Naksan Park were beautiful!You could see the N Seoul Tower in the distance. After visiting the park I walked through the narrow streets of the Ihwa-dong Mural Village.It was truly lovely. After I walked through the village I found the Cheonggyecheon Stream. It is a 10.9 km public recreation space in downtown Seoul. I was previously buried under and elevated highway and is also part of an urban renewal project. The way that Seoul really cares about having nature spaces right in the city is very reminiscent of Tokyo. Cheonggyecheon Stream.Very peaceful. I finished the day by walking past Changgyeonggung Palace. Myeongjeongmun Gate at Changgyeonggung Palace.The details and bright colors that the buildings at the palaces are decorated with will never get old. Another section of the Gyeongui Line Forest Park. On the 13th Dave and I explored Deoksugung Palace together. The grounds of the palace were absolutely beautiful. I still cant get enough of the leaf colors. Junghwamun Gate.Junghwajeon Throne HallThe palace is right in the city. They had an exhibition going on called “Fragments of Ground, Blooming.” I love the reflection of the ceiling in the mirrored floor. Additional parts of the exhibition. More beauty around the grounds of Deoksugung Palace.We left just in time to see the changing of the guards. After the palace we checked out Seoul City Hall. Which was impressive. I finished the day with a walk to Bamseom Park to get a great view of the skyline.The next day we took the train across the river to the Gangnam neighborhood that is known for its vibrant atmosphere and K-culture experiences. It also happens to be what the South Korean artist Psy was singing about in his song “Gangnam Style” back in 2012. 🙂Gangnam Square. The main reason we went was to see one of the coolest libraries that I have ever been to! This is Starfield Library and it was truly a magical place!Seoul is definitely ready for Christmas! On the 15th we took our Viator tour to the DMZ. Our first stop was at the Korean peninsula Ecological Peace Tourism information center. The mountain in the background is in North Korea. The Peace Bell. The Mangbaedan Altar is a memorial for Korean families separated by the Korean War. The Statue of Peace or “Comfort Women” statue symbolizes the victims of sexual slavery by the Japanese military during WWII. This is a steam locomotive from the Gyeongui Line that was left behind during the Korean War. It was used to transport war supplies and was destroyed in a bombing during the war. A Lego replica of the JSA. “JSA stands for Joint Security Area, which is the most well-known section of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) where North and South Korean soldiers stand face-to-face. This area, also known as Panmunjom or the “truce village,” is where inter-Korean meetings, negotiations, and a famous diplomatic encounter between U.S.”Crossing over into the DMZ. This is the former building of the Dora Observatory and one of the two things you’re allowed to take pictures of there. This is the second. The view of South Korea from the DMZ. Back in October visitors became prohibited from taking direct photos of North Korean territory or military installations from the viewing deck of the Dora Observatory. “These strict rules are for security and to prevent the use of images for propaganda purposes by North Korea.”Fortunately our tour guide shared some of his pictures with us that he took before the ban. The is the fence line of the DMZ. The DMZ “buffer zone” is 155 miles long and 2.5 miles wide. So we were still a little over a mile from the actual border with North Korea. Images of the DPRK. After the observatory we visited the Third Infiltration or Aggression Tunnel. The tunnel is one of four that were built by North Korea for a surprise invasion of South Korea. The Third tunnel was discovered in 1978 after a North Korean defector provided a tip. I made it down the ramp to the entry of the tunnel but was worried about getting claustrophobic in the cramped and crowded area so I let Dave explore inside while I explored outside. There are still over two million landmines in the DMZ.This is a recreation of the JSA.There is a lot of wildlife in the DMZ due to the lack of human interference for the past 70 years. It has become an accidental wildlife sanctuary. They have worked to make the area around the Third Tunnel peaceful. Statues of South Korean military police. Last Sunday was 60 degrees and sunny so we decided to visit Gyeongbokgung Palace. Apparently we weren’t the only ones with that idea. 😉 If you dress up in traditional attire you can get into the palace grounds for free. This was a very popular and instagrammable spot!One of the gates of Gyeongbokgung Palace.Geunjeongjeon Hall. The DETAIL!!!The pagoda I visited earlier in the week. The main throne room. The painting is called Inworobongdo, which means “painting of the Sun, Moon and Five Peaks” and symbolizes the king. We have seen it in other palaces as well because it was always placed behind the king’s royal throne during the Joseon Dynasty. “The Sun and moon together represent the harmony of yin and yang.”Golden dragon details on the ceiling of the throne room. Roofline decorations. Capturing the framing light. The in called Janggo which is storage for jars containing fermented pastes and sauces like soy sauce, soy bean pastes and chilly pastes. The pagoda again. Just trying to capture all the angles. Hyangwonjeon Pavillion on Hyangwonji pond with Bukhansan Mountain peak in the background. It was such a lovely day!Another image representing the king painted on a screen door. Beautiful fence details. Dave’s Korean BBQ birthday lunch. And dessert at Colline. A cute French cafe on the Hongdae pedestrian street. Namsan Park Botanical Garden. We climbed Namsan Mountain. Found the old city walls. It was a beautiful hike. We were rewarded for our efforts by some pretty incredible views. Saw the N Seoul TowerHanging locks on things is popular all over the world! The symbolic gesture of unbreakable love and commitment. Proving that love is universal. We didn’t go up in the tour but the view from the viewing platform was pretty spectacular too.The Lifelong Learning Center “Maporium” where I’m working on this post. 🙂
