Chapter 45: Life is Good

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Today I am celebrating three years of being cancer free! I couldn’t be more grateful to be here, living this adventure we call life! I welcome all that life has given me because I have learned and grown from all of it. As you know getting diagnosed with cancer was one of the motivating factors that encouraged us to begin this new way of life, now instead of waiting, and what a wonderful decision it has turned out to be!

Our first week in Lima was wonderful. On the 27th we reunited with our friends that live here and explored the neighborhood of Callao. They brought us there because they said it isn’t a safe area to explore without a local and we’re so glad they did. We had a delicious lunch in La Punta overlooking the port and then we visited La Fortaleza del Real Felipe. It is a colonial fortress built in 1746 to defend Peru’s main port as well as the city of Lima. 

The last time we were here was during Lima’s winter and because it is so foggy most of the time I didn’t even realize how beautiful the coast along the ocean is. This is what I learned from my friend about it:  She said “they call Lima “lima la gris” Why is Lima called “the gray”? The phrase was coined by writer Héctor Velarde Bergmann. This expression refers to the characteristic gray color of Lima’s sky. It is also known as the sea of ​​clouds. It consists of an accumulation of low clouds.” We’re staying in San Isidro which is a very nice and safe neighborhood. I’m happy to report that our Air BnB is the nicest that we’ve had in the 20+ months we’ve been on this adventure. I mean, two bathrooms and a washer AND dryer inside of our apartment, you can’t beat it! It is also only two blocks from Malecón de Miraflores which is an esplanade along the coast that you can take for miles and offers spectacular views of the ocean and cliffs. 

This past weekend we walked around Miraflores together and visited the Parque del Amor (Love Park) on Saturday and then on Sunday we took an Uber to Old Town and went on a tour of the Basílica y Convento de San Francisco de Lima (Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, Lima) and we even saw the catacombs. You weren’t allowed to take pictures on the tour so here is the Wikipedia link if you’d like to see what the inside looks like and learn more about it. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_and_Convent_of_San_Francisco,_Lima)

Tonight we are returning to Huaca Pucllana to eat at their restaurant for the first time and to celebrate life. Friday we made a reservation at DanSa for dinner and a show. We’ve never been, but our friends recommended it, so it should be fun. Here is what Google says about it: “Let yourself be amazed by DanSa, a magical evening where gastronomy and music unite to take you on a sensorial journey through Peru. Enjoy exquisite flavors and immersive rhythms that will transport you to the most fascinating corners of our country.” Can’t wait! 

It is so nice to be back in Lima and I’m excited to see what the next two weeks in bring. We don’t have any excursions planned so we hope to just go with the flow and continue the vacation vibes we found in Paraguay. I’m sending you a universe of love wherever you are. Take care of one another. 

Love, Alison 

Lunch views at Club Regatas Lima sede La Punta, Callao
Lunch views at Club Regatas Lima sede La Punta, Callao
Friends at lunch overlooking the harbour at Club Regatas, La Punta, Callao
Having friends here is pretty special.
More views from Club Regatas Lima sede La Punta
More views from Club Regatas Lima sede La Punta
Red crab on a rock in La Punta, Callao
The seafood is so fresh here! 😉
La Fortaleza del Real Felipe, Callao
La Fortaleza del Real Felipe, Callao
La Fortaleza del Real Felipe
La Fortaleza del Real Felipe
Honoring the women who served to protect Lima
Honoring the women who served to protect Lima
Canon with a view. Callao
Canon with a view. Callao
A view of San Lorenzo Island which is the biggest of the Palomino Islands
A view of San Lorenzo Island which is the biggest of the Palomino Islands
Monument to Colonel Francisco Bolognesi
Monument to Colonel Francisco Bolognesi
Inside of the Museo Del Ejercito (Army Museum) La Fortaleza del Real Felipe
Inside of the Museo Del Ejercito (Army Museum) La Fortaleza del Real Felipe
Weapons.
Weapons.
Vintage Peruvian flag.
Vintage Peruvian flag.
The view from the Malecón de Miraflores when the sun is out is truly spectacular!
The view from the Malecón de Miraflores when the sun is out is truly spectacular!
Sunset views on the 27th from Larcomar.
Sunset views on the 27th from Larcomar.
Views from Malecón de Miraflores
Views from Malecón de Miraflores
Parque Miraflores
Parque Miraflores
Japanese Garden along the Malecón de Miraflores
Japanese Garden along the Malecón de Miraflores
Marine Lighthouse
Marine Lighthouse
El Parque del Amor (Love Park)
El Parque del Amor (Love Park)
Love Park. Reminds me of the Park Güell (Gaudi Park) in Barcelona.
Love Park. Reminds me of the Park Güell (Gaudi Park) in Barcelona.
El Beso (The Kiss) El Parque del Amor
El Beso (The Kiss) El Parque del Amor
Sun over the hazy Lima coastline from the Miraflores clifftop
I don’t think this view will ever get old.
Parque Olivar has some of the gnarliest olive trees I've seen and reminds me of the south of France.
Parque Olivar has some of the gnarliest olive trees I’ve seen and reminds me of the south of France.
Parque Olivar
Parque Olivar
Grey Heron
Grey Heron
Yellow-spotted river turtle at Parque Olivar
Yellow-spotted river turtle at Parque Olivar
Plaza de la Bandera
Plaza de la Bandera
There are so many kitties in Parque Kennedy (Kennedy Park)
There are so many kitties in Parque Kennedy (Kennedy Park)
Palacio Municipal de Miraflores (Miraflores City Hall)
Palacio Municipal de Miraflores (Miraflores City Hall)
Furry friends in Parque Bincentario (Bicentennial Park) San Isidro
Furry friends in Parque Bincentario (Bicentennial Park) San Isidro
Long-tailed mockingbird
Long-tailed mockingbird
The offer parasailing in Miraflores Park, no thank you!
The offer parasailing in Miraflores Park, no thank you! 🙂
Dave's first visit to the Love Park this time around.
Dave’s first visit to the Love Park this time around.
Heart-shaped window in the mosaic wall at Parque del Amor, Miraflores
Love!
Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, Lima
Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, Lima
Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, Lima
Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, Lima
Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, Lima
Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, Lima
Casa de la Literatura Peruana (House of Peruvian Literature)
Casa de la Literatura Peruana (House of Peruvian Literature)
Casa de la Literatura Peruana
Casa de la Literatura Peruana
Stained glass ceiling inside of the House of Peruvian Literature.
Stained glass ceiling inside of the House of Peruvian Literature.
The Metropolitan Cathedral of Lima. Also known as the Basilica Cathedral of Lima.
The Metropolitan Cathedral of Lima. Also known as the Basilica Cathedral of Lima.
The procession for San Martin seemed to have gone on all day around the Plaza de Armas also known as the Plaza Mayor.
The procession for San Martin seemed to have gone on all day around the Plaza de Armas also known as the Plaza Mayor.
Crowds at a procession in front of the Archbishop's Palace and Cathedral, Lima
Plaza Mayor. Old Town, Lima
Plaza Mayor. Old Town, Lima
There were differently decorated statues all over Old Town in honor of The Tapadas Limeñas (Veiled women)
There were differently decorated statues all over Old Town in honor of The Tapadas Limeñas (Veiled women)

The story I could find about them is as follows: “Tapada Limena was the denomination used at the time of the Viceroyalty of Peru and the first years of the Republic to designate the women in Lima, aka Liman women, who covered their heads and faces with comfortable silk fabrics, revealing just one eye. Its use began around 1560 with particular clothing and cloaks worn by the tapade limena and spread for 3 centuries until well into the 19th century when it was relegated by French fashions. In 1583 the Archbishop of Lima pronounced a rejection of the custom of wearing the clothing by women in the capital and ordered a fine. The fear of this custom, already widespread among Liman women, generated much misunderstanding and confusion and made the authorities suspect transvestism was taking place in the Viceroyalty. Official testimonials and ordinances could not dissuade the Limen women.”

Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo, Lima
Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo, Lima
Several of the churches still had their floral arches up from Holy Week.
Several of the churches still had their floral arches up from Holy Week.
Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo, Lima
Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo, Lima
Ornately designed pulpit.
Ornately designed pulpit.
Super cool door!
Super cool door!
I love the cool architectural designs in Old Town and the contrasts that the balconies provide.
I love the cool architectural designs in Old Town and the contrasts that the balconies provide.
This is my new, very shy, friend Milo. I'm pretty positive there couldn't be a cuter outfit on a perrito.
This is my new, very shy, friend Milo. I’m pretty positive there couldn’t be a cuter outfit on a perrito.
We also visited the Museum of the Central Reserve Bank of Peru (MUCEN) which is super cool, and free, museum located
We also visited the Museum of the Central Reserve Bank of Peru (MUCEN) which is super cool, and free, museum located in an old bank.
It had ancient Peruvian ceramics.
It had ancient Peruvian ceramics.
This is a clay pig from 200a.C.
This is a clay “pig” from 200a.C.
This is from the Mochica Civilization that lived along the northern coast of Peru between 1 and 800 CE
This is from the Mochica Civilization that lived along the northern coast of Peru between 1 and 800 CE
Moche ceramic vessel of a seated man at Museo Larco, Lima
I love the details on this one.
Old bank vault door used to display artifacts at a Lima museum
They repurposed the old vault to display artifacts.
Decorations for dresses.
Decorations for dresses.
Gold bowls and glasses.
Gold bowls and glasses.
Gold and silver pre-Columbian masks at a Lima museum
And masks.
On the third floor of the MUCEN they had paintings. This is entitled Composition of Five Figures by Carlos Quizpez Asin.
On the third floor of the MUCEN they had paintings. This is entitled Composition of Five Figures by Carlos Quizpez Asin.
El rabi ( The Rabbi) by Enrique Barreda.
El rabi ( The Rabbi) by Enrique Barreda.
The National Shield of Peru by Jose Leandro Cortes
The National Shield of Peru by Jose Leandro Cortes
Sleepwalker and Star in a Glass of Water by Denise Mulanovich. MUCEN was definitely a hidden gem I'm glad we didn't miss.
“Sleepwalker and Star in a Glass of Water” by Denise Mulanovich. MUCEN was definitely a hidden gem I’m glad we didn’t miss.
Carved wooden balconies in Lima's historic centre
More cool balconies…
Row of colonial wooden balconies along a street in central Lima
I never noticed the hills around Old Town last time I was here. Probably because I couldn't see them through the fog.
I never noticed the hills around Old Town last time I was here. Probably because I couldn’t see them through the fog. 🙂
Time to head back to San Isidro.
Time to head back to San Isidro.
This is Dave and I seven years ago at Huaca Pucllana where we are going to dinner tonight.
This is Dave and I seven years ago at Huaca Pucllana where we are going to dinner tonight. 🙂

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