We have had a busy and wonderful two and half weeks since I last wrote. There is just so much amazingness that Japan has to offer. We want to see and do it all, which we know is impossible. The biggest thing that has stood out to us as we’ve continued to be immersed in all things Japan is the expression of faith that exists in all things from the copious amounts of temples and shrines to the interactions with the people. We learned that the most important thing for people who follow the Buddhist faith is to be a good person and you can feel that everywhere you go.
During our last week and a half in Tokyo Dave and I went to the incredible miniature museum Small Worlds on the 1st. Everything was super cute and tiny. We also were able to experience Oktoberfest at Tokyo Skytree and hear some live music. They even did their own version of the cheers that is repeated at all Oktoberfest celebrations I’ve ever been to. We revisited “Tech Heaven”, I got to spend some more time in the beautiful Gyoen National Garden and saw the incredible cat billboard that looks 3D and Godzilla street.
On the 8th I went on my solo day trip to Mount Fiji which turned out to be the perfect day. We started in Kamakura and visited the Great Buddha of Kotoku-in. It is the largest Buddha in Japan not inside a temple. It began inside one but it kept on being destroyed by different natural disasters. They ultimately decided to not reconstruct the structure in 1498. The next stop was Hakone where we took a short boat cruise on Lake Ashi and got our first clear views of Mount Fuji and the Heiwa no Torii (Gate of Peace) of the Hakone Shrine that is on the lake. Our third stop was at the cute village of Oshino Hakkai where they have hot springs and natural fountains where you can fill your water bottles with water from Mount Fuji, which they say is like drinking from the fountain of youth. They day ended at Lake Kawaguchi which provided the best view of the mountain. I’m so thankful that it was a clear sunny day. Even though the clouds moved in a little bit at the end of it we were still able to get several views of the majestic mountain. It was truly a special day and one hundred percent worth it!
We also got to visit TeamLab Planets which was a magical playground for all the senses. The immersive experience incorporated elements of light, water, forests and flowers. It was incredible. On our last day in Tokyo we were walking to the Asakusa neighborhood for lunch and met a group of women welcoming people into their tiny Buddhist temple. They were so warm and friendly it was impossible to say no so we went in and watched a ten minute video about Buddhism in English. They taught us that the primary goal for Buddhism is to be a good person and not succumb “the three poisons” or “three kleshas” known as ignorance, greed and hatred which are seen as the fundamental mental states that cause suffering and keep people trapped in the cycle of suffering, known as samsara. They were so friendly and excited to learn that we were from the United States. They loved how tall Dave is and his long hair. Several hours later when we were walking back they were still standing outside and waved greetings to us from across the street. What a random and wonderful interaction that was.
Even though I’ve continued having weekly chats with friends and family I feel like I’m out of practice communication wise. I feel like I’m starting to live with Japanese on the brain. Even though I really don’t know how to say very much, I find myself constantly thinking about it and trying to learn about how to communicate better. Having friends from the US in Tokyo for part of the time was a huge gift! It has been seven weeks since we left the states and I miss the face to face interaction and ease of connections that being around English speakers brings. We had the best day together on the 2nd and I had to pinch myself the entire day that we were in Japan! I met them in the morning at Meiji-Jingu, one of Shinto shrines in the beautiful Yoyogi Park. After the shrine we went and hung out around the Takeshita Harajuku neighborhood. We spent the rest of the day shopping, which I haven’t really done since we began this adventure, and drinking cheap beers from the 7-Eleven. We ended the day taking in the views from the rooftop of the Tokyu Plaza Harajuku “Harakado”. My cheeks were sore by the end from smiling and laughing the entire day. I was able to see them a couple other times during their time in Tokyo and my friend and I were even able to have a lovely dinner together at an adorable pizza place called Aoi Napoli. I was very grateful for the time and memories that I’m sure we’ll never forget.
After three amazing weeks in Tokyo I was really sad to leave. I already can’t wait to go back. We arrived in Kyoto on the 11th and have taken full advantage of Dave having the week off. It has been so fun having more than a few daytime hours with him. Kyoto is very different from Tokyo mainly for its traditional feel. For starters it is quite a bit smaller than Tokyo with “only” 1.4 to 1.5 million people. It has over 1,600 Buddhist temples and over 400 Shinto Shrines. They are EVERYWHERE! We have even seen two churches with crosses, the first of our time in Japan. Another cool thing is that in the Kyoto area there are 17 different UNESCO World Heritage Sites! Our first night in town we went to the Hyatt Regency for a cocktail and were able to see a traditional Maiko performance. A maiko “is an apprentice geisha, a young traditional Japanese female entertainer who performs songs, dances, and plays the shamisen.” What a special way to kick off the week! We even met a Japanese woman who spent two months in Saint Paul, Minnesota back in 1989 studying English. She stayed not to far from our house! She lives in Osaka now so we exchanged information and may reach out to her when we go there on the 25th. Such a small world!
This week we have seen several of the temples, shrines and castles. One day we went to Nara and saw the tallest Buddha in Japan housed in the Tōdai-ji Temple. “This Ushiku Daibutsu in Ibaraki Prefecture, standing at 120 meters (390 ft) tall, including its base and lotus platform.” We also of course enjoyed seeing the many sacred deer. SO CUTE!!!!
On Tuesday, the 14th, we visited Fushimi Inari Taisha, a major Shinto shrine famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates. During our visit we climbed to the top of Mount Inari where we took in the view over the city. On the way there we had yet another random, although is anything really random, interaction with a woman on the street. She stopped us and asked if she could pray for blessings of happiness over us for one minute. Of course we agreed. After the interaction with the women at the Buddhist temple in Tokyo and then this kindness, it left us wondering if we seem like friendly welcoming people who others are drawn to? Or why, when no where else in the world it has happened, interactions like this, happened twice in the past two weeks. Is it us or is it Japan? Whatever energy we’re putting out into the universe, if people are drawn to us in such positive ways, we’re here for it.
After Fushimi Inari Taisha we went to the Sanjūsangen-dō Temple and it was definitely worth the visit! “The temple built by the famous warlord Taira no Kiyomori for Emperor Go-Shirakawa in 1164. It is primarily famous for its 1,001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of compassion, in her thousand-armed incarnation, lined up along the entire length of the thirty-three ken (unit of measurement) hall from which the temple gets its moniker.” It was an impressive sight to see.
Another day we got up early and took the train to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. It was beautiful and I’m so glad that we went early because by the time we left it was packed with people. The same day we visited the Imperial Palace of Kyoto in the rain. On Friday we went to Yogen-in Temple which actually has a pretty dark history. To make the ceiling of this temple they used the floorboards of the “remains of Fushimi Castle where 380 Tokugawa (Samurai) soldiers committed suicide in 1600 during the Battle of Fushimi Castle.” You could see the outlines of bodies, faces, hands and feet on the ceiling. Yikes! Yesterday we went to Nijō-jo Castle which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We have one more week in Kyoto before we head to Osaka for two weeks. We hope to visit some of the other World Heritage sites. We think the Nintendo Museum in Uji might be fun to see and if we have another day with nice weather I’d like to visit Biwako Omi-Maiko Nakahama Beach that my friend recommended. I am absolutely in love with Japan and am in awe of the quiet peaceful beauty it’s culture exudes. I am eternally grateful for the opportunity to experience it.
Sending you love and wishing you peace and happiness wherever you are!
Love, Alison
Here is my attempt to narrow down all the pictures I took at the Small Worlds miniature museum. It was very difficult. Bare with me as I share the adorableness. 🙂Who wouldn’t want to eat pastries with these adorable otters?!Izakaya dioramaMusic at Skytree Oktoberfest.As you know I couldn’t get enough of the view of the Skytree in Tokyo. Sake barrels at Meiji-Jingu Shrine in Tokyo.One of the entrance gates to Meiji-Jingu Shrine from Yoyogi Park. Meiji-Jingu Shrine.Takeshita Street. The sign changed since the last time I visited which is fun. Tokyu Plaza Harajuku “Harakado”First Supermoon in Tokyo. Revisiting Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden.3D cat Cross Shinjuku Space.Godzilla Road. Where’s Godzilla?Peekaboo. Carnitas taco rice with a fluffy egg on top from Ramos Takadanobaba. Insert drool face here. 🙂The Great Buddha of Kotoku-in Temple. Kamakura, Japan. Pirate ship on Lake Ashi in Hakone Japan. The first view on Mount Fuji from Lake Ashi. The Heiwa no Torii (Gate of Peace) of the Hakone Shrine. Lake Ashi. Mount Fuji above the Japanese Garden in Oshino Hakkai. The traditional village of Oshino Hakkai.Japanese Garden in Oshino Hakkai.Mount Fuji from Lake Kawaguchi. Wagashi, or Japanese confectionery. I had the same struggle narrowing down photos from TeamLab Planets as I did with Small Worlds! Here is the light room. This is the water room at TeamLab Planets. We were standing in water about as deep as mid-calf. The coy are being projected on the water. It was VERY cool! The whole place was. This room was filled top to bottom with inflated multi-colored balloons. Where’d Alison go?! 🙂The beginning of the Athletics Forest rooms. All the “balls” that you see in this photo are squishy and the goal is the cross the floor following the same color. Sculptures in the garden area of TeamLab Planets.Orchids can grow without soil. This room is filled with orchids hanging from the celling that move up and down. We had these beauties at our wedding. We first saw them when we were in China back in 2007.The way they have mirrors all over the walls, floors and ceilings in several of the rooms really creates a dramatic effect and this room smelled amazing too! Our last day in Tokyo brought a lot of fun and some heart felt revisits. This was our favorite pizza place in Asakusa. Can you tell why?Sadly this adorable Monchhichi was too big for my luggage! A beautiful mural in Asakusa on the right. Not sure what is being advertised on the left. An art instillation of the 12 animals of the Japanese zodiac. The views from Asahi Sky Room along the Sumida River. The view of Sensō-ji Temple in Asakusa from Asahi Sky Room.I found this adorable liquor museum in the subway. The bartender introduced me to this deliciously smooth Japanese whisky.Staying up past 7pm has its benefits. 🙂The Golden Flame on top of the Asahi brewery represents the “burning heart of Asahi beer” and their passion for brewing. Until next time Tokyo. Our adorable Air BnB in Kyoto. Very traditional and a lot of places where poor Dave hits his head. Takio Shrine. One of the many Shinto shrines on our street. Maiko performance at the Hyatt Regency in Kyoto. Saiseki-dori Street is kind of like the Golden Gai area in Tokyo. Super cute little street with tons of quaint bars and restaurants.These are the fluffy pancakes at Kacto which is the sister restaurant of Ivy Place. I remembered this time to take a picture of them before they were gone. 🙂This is the view of the Buddah at Ryōzen Kannon Temple from Kacto Restaurant. Nishiki Tenmangū Shrine in Nishiki Market. Nishiki Market provides all the culinary amazingness that Japan. I haven’t been brave enough but I’m determined to try the mini octopus with a quail egg inside before I leave. I’m not often on Reddit but I was sent an article about this place before we arrived in Japan and because I couldn’t find the name of it I wasn’t sure where it was located. We stumbled upon it while exploring Nishiki Market and were able to taste their tacos this past Thursday night and my goodness they were delicious. The place is called Uemon Taqueria and I highly recommend it if you’re ever in Kyoto. My love for the decorations on the roofs of the temples are the new murals for me. I’m obsessed. Japan takes their beer very seriously. This was a first for me. If you aren’t sure what is happening I didn’t either. This bag over my head protects the clothes from make-up even though I’m not wearing any. Just doing my best to be respectful of the culture. Yasaka Shrine also known as Gion-san is in the Gion district of Kyoto. Ōtani Sobyō Temple.Chōraku-ji Temple.The view from Chōraku-ji Temple.Dai-un-in Temple. Just to give you an idea of all the Temples and Shrines around Kyoto. I thought of Charlie Berens when I saw this. “Watch out for deer!” Nara, Japan. The Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) Of Tōdai-ji Temple in Nara. The Great Buddha. Excuse me is there anything in there for me? Hanging lanterns at Kasuga Taisha, a Shinto shrine in Nara. These lanterns are “a symbol of light overcoming ignorance, represent wishes for prosperity and safety, and serve as a connection to the shrine’s history through the thousands of donated lanterns.”I just love how nature takes over. And I couldn’t get enough of the sacred deer in Nara. I learned that the sounds they make remind me of a door hinge that needs to be oiled. I don’t think I’ve ever heard that before. Tofuku-ji Temple. Our neighborhood namesake. More rooftop decor. Fushimi Inari Shrine has the famous Senbon Torii (Thousand Torii Gates). I got very lucky with this picture. It was a very crowded day!The view from Mount Inari. These adorable foxes are all over the Fushimi Inari Shrine. “The foxes at Fushimi Inari are messengers of Inari Okami, the Shinto god of rice, harvests, business, and prosperity. These fox statues, called kitsune or Byakko-san (white fox), serve as divine messengers, guarding the shrine and carrying symbolic objects like a key, rice stalk, or a jewel, each representing a specific blessing. They are also seen as warding off evil and protecting the sacred area, replacing the traditional lion-dog guardians found at other Shinto shrines.”We made it to the top!Buying sake on our street. The outside of Sanjūsangendō Temple. Like many of the temples and castles in Kyoto you can’t take pictures inside. Here is an image of the 1000 Kannons at Sanjūsangendō Temple from Google. Another amazing culinary experience that I forgot to take a picture of. This amazing mural was taken at Taco Scratch in the Shimogyo Ward of Kyoto.The outside of the Kyoto National Museum. We weren’t allowed to take pictures inside but we saw the beautiful exhibition entitled Song and Yuan Buddhist Painting Early Chinese Masterpieces.Nidec Kyoto TowerArashiyama Bamboo Forest.The view of the Katsura River from the overlook at Arashiyama Bamboo Forest.Boats along the Katsura river with the Togetsukyo Bridge in the background. These tanuki statues of a Japanese racoon dog are considered a good luck charm and are all over Japan primarily outside of shops and restaurants. ThisKiho-zan Heijo-in temple has a monument that is dedicated to Kukai, also known as Kobo-Daishihad. There are tons of little cairns all over the outside of this temple. Kukai was a prominent Buddhist monk who founded the Shingon school of Buddhism in the 9th century. The view of the Kyoto Imperial Palace from the Imperial gardens. The Gonaitei Garden at the Imperial Palace was incredibly beautiful even in the rain. The delicious tacos from Uemon Taqueria near Nishiki Market. Waiting in line for my first taste of fried octopus balls on Saiseki-dori Street. My goodness they were delicious!This cute diorama was outside of Gin Bar Kairos on Saiseki-dori Street. They definitely made delicious drinks. Dave had heard a lot of the smaller bars in Japan only cater to local people. We have found the key is to be quite and respectful. We saw several groups of loud people get turned away while we were enjoying our drinks. More cuteness on Saiseki-dori Street. Most bars don’t open until between 5pm and 7pm, which is typically when Dave is sleeping, so it was fun to enjoy some of the nightlife together during Dave’s week off. Yogen-in Temple. You weren’t allowed to take pictures inside. Understandably so. This is the temple with the ceiling made from the Fushimi Castle. The walls and tower of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nijo-jo Castle.The beautiful main gate of the Nijo-jo Castle.We couldn’t take pictures of the inside and I couldn’t get enough of the details on the outside. Hanging bells. Another beautiful garden at Nijo-jo Castle.The view from the base of the keep tower. We were able to take pictures inside Painting Gallery. These are of the of some of the painted screens that are similar to the ones we weren’t able to take pictures of inside the castle. One of the beautiful door pulls on the screen. My goodness we’ve seen and done so much!
