Chapter 46: Lima is Lovely

We just finished three terrific weeks in Lima. It was so wonderful I was sad to leave and I know that we will be back! 

During the past two weeks since I’ve written we enjoyed an easy pace exploring. The week of the 5th we celebrated with a lovely dinner at Huaca Pucllana.  I visited another pyramid in town called Huaca Huallamarca. Like Huaca Pucllana, it was built to serve as a ceremonial and funerary center by the ancient Lima culture. I also visited the adorable turtles in Parque Olivar again. I checked out the Centro Cultural PUCP where there was an exhibit called Las Manos que Danzan where I got to see some of the amazing masks, puppets and sculptures created by Edmundo Torres.

Friday night the 9th we went to DanSa and it was as awesome as the reviews said it would be. The food, drinks, music and dancing were truly spectacular. How they were able to create such good food from all over Peru; ceviche, stuffed peppers, duck and lamb, for so many people was an impressive feat. I’m so glad we went!

The next day we were able to meet our friends one more time for lunch at El Aguajal which specializes in delicious food from the Amazon. Think cured meats, plantains, chicken and incredible spices. After lunch we visited the Museo Larco. It is a museum that has a very impressive private collection of Pre-Columbian art. On Sunday the 11th we finally made it to Barranco. Barranco was founded in 1874 and is known for its Colonial architecture, colorful murals, churches, lively bars and ocean views. It was a wonderful day.

Last week in Lima I visited the beach, returned to Barranco to visit the Lima Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC). We went to Carnaval Bar which is on the list of the top 50 bars in the world and had some fun and tasty drinks. I also visited The Place of Memory, Tolerance and Social Inclusion is a museum in Lima, Peru, dedicated to the Peruvian internal conflict of the 1980s and 1990s. The week finished off with a delicious dinner at Song Peruvian Cuisine Fusion restaurant not too far from our place. We got fortune cookies to finish off the meal and we both got the same fortune! It said “La vida es una aventura, atrévete.” It directly translates as “life is an adventure, dare.” When I looked into the word atrévete further, as I had never heard it before, it is slang and basically means to dare to have the courage to get out of the ordinary, leaving the conventional things. How apropos?! I asked the server if all the fortunes were the same since Dave and I got the same one so he brought us two more cookies and I got the same fortune a second time! I wonder if the universe was telling us something? 😉

This past Saturday we made the transition from Lima to Puerto Rico. We have been to PR one other time, 10 years ago, and only for a long MLK weekend. We loved it when we were here and wanted to return and have more time to explore the island since our last visit we only saw Isla Verde and the area around Old San Juan. It was a long day since we had to get up at 245 am and everything went smoothly. After we landed we picked up our rental car at the San Juan Airport we drove to Ponce where we’re spending the week. We arrived around 8pm after a pit stop in Caguas for some incredibly delicious tacos and queso fundido at La Matraca Taqueria. Whoever wrote that some of the best food can be found in a strip mall was definitely talking about this place!

Aside from still being able to practice my Spanish, I kinda feel like I’m having reverse culture shock after being out of the United States for the past five months. We’re north of the equator, using US dollars and have 5G. We also are noticing how much more expensive things have gotten since we left, especially compared to South America. I went to the grocery store yesterday and it was comparable to Norwegian prices! 🤣

Since we’re only here for the week we wanted to use Sunday to explore the area. We didn’t realize how remote the place we booked was. This realization was similar to what happened to us when we were in the middle of nowhere in Southern Ireland. Needless to say, even after almost two years of experience, the learning curve is still very steep. And, we had an opportunity to put into practice all that we have learned about going with the flow. It could always be worse. Our Air BnB is really nice and the additional cost to extend our car for the week was small compared to the alternative of being somewhat stranded. Now we’re able to see and do things as we hoped. 

After a trip to the Ponce airport, luckily we didn’t have to drive all the way back to San Juan, another blessing, we finally began our day of exploring around noon. We started out by trying to find a La Soplaera Waterfall that was recommended to us by our host. The waterfall was supposed to take 45 minutes to get to,  and we had to abort our mission a little over an hour in when Google brought us to a very steep gravel road on what seemed to be a farm in the mountain. We decided to make the smart choice and changed course for La Parguera.. La Parguera is a cute little town on the water near the southwestern end of the island.  It has shops, bars and restaurants. We did a little exploring and got some information on a bioluminescent bay tour we might try and take later this week. We finished off our day in the center of Ponce peeping at the historic architecture and eating a delicious pizza. I also had ranch for my first time since December and it was delicious! 

I’m looking forward to having the car to drive around and explore for the first time since the US/Canada portion of this adventure, almost a year ago now. I’m also SUPER excited that I get to finally see some of my family in just four days!!! My dad, sister, and my two youngest nephews are coming to visit for a few days and I can’t wait! I haven’t seen my dad and sister since the end of January and I haven’t seen my nephews since Christmas. I am very much looking forward to some quality time together and am incredibly grateful to them for making it happen!

I hope you are doing well and I’m sending you a universe of love wherever you are!

Alison 

PS Dave has been working really hard on his data collection from our adventure and has created a very cool site where you can view it. He added a tab to the home page of our Out of the Swamlows website entitled “travel data” so definitely take some time to check it out. It also has its own link: Data.outoftheswamlows.com

Huaca Pucllana
Sea bass at Huaca Pucllana. I think part of the reason I love the food in Lima so much is all of the delicious sauces!!!
Celebrating three years of being cancer free!
Huaca Huallamarca
I can never get enough of the historic mates! The museum at Huaca Huallamarca
Huaca Huallamarca
The juxtaposition of this being right in the city is mind blowing.
The pyramid was constructed from small adobe bricks and straw, and the remains of tombs, pottery and mummies have been excavated here. Lima was founded by the Spanish in 1535. It is pretty incredible to be able to stand in so much history.
Parque Olivar
I didn’t see the wee one in the middle at first. 🙂
So happy together!
I’m so glad my friend recommended this place. I feel like this picture captures how truly beautiful Lima is when the sun comes out!
So gnarly! Parque Olivar
 Las Manos que Danzan by Edmundo Torres. Centro Cultural PUCP
The view from the esplanade at night.
Illuminated designs of the geoglyphs you can see in Nazca. Parque Maria Reiche, Lima
Going to the beach. Playas de la Costa
Looking back up at the esplanade.
An homage to the surfers.
Waiting for the show to start. DanSa
The incredible band.
So much color and energy.
The amazing performers of DanSa!
Museo Larco
Ancestral Moche Individual and two-headed serpent. (1 AD-800 AD)
Portrait vessels Moche. (1 AD-800 AD)
Moche-Huari Brocade (800 AD-1300 AD)
Gold funerary offering from the Chimu Imperial Epoch around 900 AD. (Museo Larco has not changed their signage to BCE and CE)
One of several halls of “open storage” displays at Museo Larco. Just to give you a taste of how expansive their collection is.
The gardens at the museum were beautiful too!
Views from the esplanade in Barranco.
They really take care to make it a beautiful place to walk.
Zoomed in views of the peninsula where the cross is illuminated at night. And little surfers.
Lima loves Mafalda too!
Parque Municipal de Barranco.
The adorable biblioteca (library). Barranco
Continuing my love for the talented muralists of Lima.
The Bridge of Sighs is a wooden pedestrian overpass located between the Hermitage of Barranco and the Paseo Chabuca Granda. The bridge opened in 1876.
Iglesia La Ermita de Barranco. Built in 1901 it has been closed to the public since an earthquake happened in 1940.
Murals by Cake located along the Bajada de Baños which is a historic staircase that leads down to beach from the church square.
Just to help us remember where we are. 😉
More of the amazing murals along the Bajada de Baños
“I don’t make memories legendary, nostalgia no longer tempts me. I live for today, not in yesterday nor in tomorrow.” (Well said!)
The following pictures of animals are all part of the exhibit entitled Conversations in the Zoo by Moico Yaker. Lima Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC)
No Title by Wifredo Lam. Lima Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC)
Construccion 1 by Gaston Garreaud
La espera by Carlos Runcie Tanaka
No Title by Miguel Andrade
Humanidad Perdida (Lost Humanity) by Rafael Pascuale
Definitely worth the hour + walk back to Barranco!
Carnaval Bar
Ramy
The Carnaval
Ayahuasca 😉
Place of Memory, Tolerance and Social Inclusion (LUM) Lugar de la Memoria, la Tolerancia y la Inclusión Social – LUM
LUM
LUM
The view from the LUM rooftop.
Back to the beach.
Buena Suerte (Good Luck) Song Restaurant-Lima
La Parguera-Puerto Rico