Today I am celebrating three years of being cancer free! I couldn’t be more grateful to be here, living this adventure we call life! I welcome all that life has given me because I have learned and grown from all of it. As you know getting diagnosed with cancer was one of the motivating factors that encouraged us to begin this new way of life, now instead of waiting, and what a wonderful decision it has turned out to be!
Our first week in Lima was wonderful. On the 27th we reunited with our friends that live here and explored the neighborhood of Callao. They brought us there because they said it isn’t a safe area to explore without a local and we’re so glad they did. We had a delicious lunch in La Punta overlooking the port and then we visited La Fortaleza del Real Felipe. It is a colonial fortress built in 1746 to defend Peru’s main port as well as the city of Lima.
The last time we were here was during Lima’s winter and because it is so foggy most of the time I didn’t even realize how beautiful the coast along the ocean is. This is what I learned from my friend about it: She said “they call Lima “lima la gris” Why is Lima called “the gray”? The phrase was coined by writer Héctor Velarde Bergmann. This expression refers to the characteristic gray color of Lima’s sky. It is also known as the sea of clouds. It consists of an accumulation of low clouds.” We’re staying in San Isidro which is a very nice and safe neighborhood. I’m happy to report that our Air BnB is the nicest that we’ve had in the 20+ months we’ve been on this adventure. I mean, two bathrooms and a washer AND dryer inside of our apartment, you can’t beat it! It is also only two blocks from Malecón de Miraflores which is an esplanade along the coast that you can take for miles and offers spectacular views of the ocean and cliffs.
This past weekend we walked around Miraflores together and visited the Parque del Amor (Love Park) on Saturday and then on Sunday we took an Uber to Old Town and went on a tour of the Basílica y Convento de San Francisco de Lima (Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, Lima) and we even saw the catacombs. You weren’t allowed to take pictures on the tour so here is the Wikipedia link if you’d like to see what the inside looks like and learn more about it. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_and_Convent_of_San_Francisco,_Lima)
Tonight we are returning to Huaca Pucllana to eat at their restaurant for the first time and to celebrate life. Friday we made a reservation at DanSa for dinner and a show. We’ve never been, but our friends recommended it, so it should be fun. Here is what Google says about it: “Let yourself be amazed by DanSa, a magical evening where gastronomy and music unite to take you on a sensorial journey through Peru. Enjoy exquisite flavors and immersive rhythms that will transport you to the most fascinating corners of our country.” Can’t wait!
It is so nice to be back in Lima and I’m excited to see what the next two weeks in bring. We don’t have any excursions planned so we hope to just go with the flow and continue the vacation vibes we found in Paraguay. I’m sending you a universe of love wherever you are. Take care of one another.
Love, Alison
Lunch views at Club Regatas Lima sede La Punta, CallaoHaving friends here is pretty special.More views from Club Regatas Lima sede La PuntaThe seafood is so fresh here! 😉La Fortaleza del Real Felipe, CallaoLa Fortaleza del Real FelipeHonoring the women who served to protect LimaCanon with a view. CallaoA view of San Lorenzo Island which is the biggest of the Palomino IslandsMonument to Colonel Francisco BolognesiInside of the Museo Del Ejercito (Army Museum) La Fortaleza del Real FelipeWeapons.Vintage Peruvian flag. The view from the Malecón de Miraflores when the sun is out is truly spectacular!Sunset views on the 27th from Larcomar. Views from Malecón de MirafloresParque MirafloresJapanese Garden along the Malecón de MirafloresMarine LighthouseEl Parque del Amor (Love Park)Love Park. Reminds me of the Park Güell (Gaudi Park) in Barcelona.El Beso (The Kiss) El Parque del AmorI don’t think this view will ever get old. Parque Olivar has some of the gnarliest olive trees I’ve seen and reminds me of the south of France.Parque OlivarGrey Heron Yellow-spotted river turtle at Parque OlivarPlaza de la BanderaThere are so many kitties in Parque Kennedy (Kennedy Park)Palacio Municipal de Miraflores (Miraflores City Hall)Furry friends in Parque Bincentario (Bicentennial Park) San IsidroLong-tailed mockingbirdThe offer parasailing in Miraflores Park, no thank you! 🙂Dave’s first visit to the Love Park this time around. Love!Basílica and Convent of San Francisco, LimaBasílica and Convent of San Francisco, LimaBasílica and Convent of San Francisco, LimaCasa de la Literatura Peruana (House of Peruvian Literature)Casa de la Literatura PeruanaStained glass ceiling inside of the House of Peruvian Literature. The Metropolitan Cathedral of Lima. Also known as the Basilica Cathedral of Lima. The procession for San Martin seemed to have gone on all day around the Plaza de Armas also known as the Plaza Mayor. Plaza Mayor. Old Town, LimaThere were differently decorated statues all over Old Town in honor of The Tapadas Limeñas (Veiled women)
The story I could find about them is as follows: “Tapada Limena was the denomination used at the time of the Viceroyalty of Peru and the first years of the Republic to designate the women in Lima, aka Liman women, who covered their heads and faces with comfortable silk fabrics, revealing just one eye. Its use began around 1560 with particular clothing and cloaks worn by the tapade limena and spread for 3 centuries until well into the 19th century when it was relegated by French fashions. In 1583 the Archbishop of Lima pronounced a rejection of the custom of wearing the clothing by women in the capital and ordered a fine. The fear of this custom, already widespread among Liman women, generated much misunderstanding and confusion and made the authorities suspect transvestism was taking place in the Viceroyalty. Official testimonials and ordinances could not dissuade the Limen women.”
Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo, LimaSeveral of the churches still had their floral arches up from Holy Week. Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo, LimaOrnately designed pulpit. Super cool door!I love the cool architectural designs in Old Town and the contrasts that the balconies provide. This is my new, very shy, friend Milo. I’m pretty positive there couldn’t be a cuter outfit on a perrito. We also visited the Museum of the Central Reserve Bank of Peru (MUCEN) which is super cool, and free, museum located in an old bank. It had ancient Peruvian ceramics. This is a clay “pig” from 200a.C. This is from the Mochica Civilization that lived along the northern coast of Peru between 1 and 800 CEI love the details on this one. They repurposed the old vault to display artifacts.Decorations for dresses. Gold bowls and glasses. And masks. On the third floor of the MUCEN they had paintings. This is entitled Composition of Five Figures by Carlos Quizpez Asin. El rabi ( The Rabbi) by Enrique Barreda.The National Shield of Peru by Jose Leandro Cortes“Sleepwalker and Star in a Glass of Water” by Denise Mulanovich. MUCEN was definitely a hidden gem I’m glad we didn’t miss. More cool balconies…I never noticed the hills around Old Town last time I was here. Probably because I couldn’t see them through the fog. 🙂Time to head back to San Isidro. This is Dave and I seven years ago at Huaca Pucllana where we are going to dinner tonight. 🙂
You know how sometimes people make the comment, “Google (or any tech/ AI entity) is always listening.” Well, we had our first experience where that was a positive thing. What happened was we booked a trip to Iguazu Falls before we left Argentina, from Asunción Paraguay, on April 11th and decided to spend two nights in Brazil. Three days before we were set to leave, CNN shared an article with Dave on his phone about how on April 10th Brazil’s visa requirements for US Citizens will go into place. We weren’t planning on being able to visit Brazil this part of the adventure so the thought of checking visa requirements completely slipped our minds! We went online that night and filled out our application and said a little prayer. A three day turnaround for a visa is a rarity in the United States, so we weren’t holding our breath that it would work out. We got notification two days before departure that our applications had been accepted. And then the day before departure we received an email with our electronic visas. Dave was able to print copies of them at his colocation place and on the 11th we boarded our bus to Foz de Iguazu Brazil, two very grateful people. ?
It’s all part of the adventure and we’re here for it. Including when we were on the bus for nine hours instead of five, with a two hour delay at the border because of traffic, and we arrived safely. Being able to see the Argentinian and Brazilian side of the falls was really magical and we now understand why so many people told us we needed to go!
On Sunday our bus back to Paraguay didn’t leave until five so we took an Uber to The Itaipu Plant for a panoramic bus tour of the 3,337,733 acre property. “This bi-national hydroelectric plant is located on the Paraná River between Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil, and Ciudad del Este, Paraguay.” It is the third largest hydroelectric plant in the world.
Paraguay has continued to provide some welcomed chill time to our adventure. The weather is beautiful everyday and the food is delicious and affordable. I definitely feel like I am in my eating era. ? Even Dave mentioned he feels like he’s on vacation. This is the first time in the 19 months of this adventure that he has felt/expressed that he felt that way, without actually being on vacation, and I couldn’t be more thrilled!
Last week I visited the Cementerio de la Recoleta. The tiles on the mausoleums in Paraguay are to the stained glass windows on the ones in Argentina, and they rival Portugal for their elaborate designs. I also went to Museo del Barro. Which “began as a private circulating collection and seven years later acquired a permanent location. It includes three separate divisions, a pottery museum, an indigenous art museum and a contemporary art collection.” (Google) and it was very cool! I appreciated their collection of pottery, sculpture, art and of course the historic mates. It is fun to compare the indigenous art from different countries and to notice similarities. I feel like museums like Museo del Barro gave me a window into Paraguayan culture.
This past weekend we spent more time exploring the historic downtown of Asunción. We started out at Costanera de Asunción which is a nice park along the Bahía de Asunción (Bay of Asuncion) that has a little beach and walking paths where we took in the view of the Palacio de López, which is the Governor’s’ Palace, the skyline and the port. We were also able to go inside the National Pantheon of Heroes and the outside of Central Station Railway Museum on the edge of the Chacarita neighborhood.
On the 26th we move to Lima, Peru for three weeks. We have been to Lima once before back in 2018 and we’re looking forward to having more time to immerse ourselves in Peruvian culture. We’re also hoping to meet up with some friends that we made on our wine tour in Chile. Just a little over two months until we’re home. We are doing our best to enjoy every minute. Sending you love wherever you are!
The view of the Friendship Bridge between Paraguay and Brazil from our seats on the bus.The bus station in Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil.View from our hotel the first night in Foz do Iguaçu.And the sunrise the day of our tour to Iguaçu Falls. The beginning of the Argentinian side of the falls. Argentinian IguaçuArgentinian IguaçuThe white flag in the picture is where you get a good view of “Devil’s Throat.”The view from Devil’s Throat-ArgentinaDevil’s ThroatWe saw some more incredible birds. This is a plush-crested jay.Black-crowned night heron. These South American Coati were all over the place waiting for the train back to the entrance on the Argentinian side. Our tour guide called them “organized crime.” 🙂The beginning of the Brazilian side of Iguaçu Falls. View of the falls from the Brazilian side. More incredible views. I love a good perspective shot!The view of Devil’s Throat from the Brazilian side of Iguaçu Falls.The very wet finish to a magical day!Dave’s picture 🙂The view from the observation tower at the end of the walkways on the Brazilian side. Itaipu Hydroelectric Power Plant-BrazilThe view from the top of the dam from the panoramic bus. One of the giant penstocks that carries water to the hydroelectric turbine. Dam views.More dam views. Cool flora. Century plant. So many cool birds! This is the red-crested cardinal.Red-rumped cacique.Yello-chevroned parakeet.Palacio de López. Asunción, Paraguay.Kitties love to read too! Biblioteca Municipal Augusto Roa Bastos. AsunciónAnother library kitty. Palacio de López at night. Some of the amazing tile on the mausoleums at Cementerio de la Recoleta. Asunción.Cementerio de la RecoletaCementerio de la RecoletaCementerio de la RecoletaCemetery kitties.The view from our rooftop. The great kiskadee that was keeping me company. Vintage mate cups and straws. Museo del Barro.These figurines remind me of the ones I saw at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico.Museo del BarroIndigenous lacework at Museo del Barro. Amazing bead work done by Harry Chavez as part of his “La Otra Verdad” series. “La Otra Verdad” Museo del BarroMixed media art by Rafael FilizzolaCatholic artifacts possibly dating back to the 17th century. Shaman regalia and masks from Chaco, Paaraguay.Museo del BarroIndigenous necklace. Religious figurines. “La Carpilla Sixtina” by Paraguayan artist Ricardo Migliorisi. This made up the walls of a tent inside the Museo Del Barro and is “an ironic take on the Sistine Chapel.”“Mural” by Rcardo Migliorisi. The sunsets in Asunción have been pretty spectacular. These two are from our rooftop in the Recoleta neighborhood. Yes the same name as the one we stayed in in Buenos Aires 🙂Amusement park in Costanera de AsunciónHéroes del Chaco BridgePalacio de López from Costanera de AsunciónDave shared that Paraguay has the largest navy of any landlocked country. “Monumento a los Héroes del Chaco” This is “a significant symbol of Paraguay’s national identity and patriotism, particularly in the context of the Chaco War”This beautiful mural marks the entrance to the Puerto Cultural Center. “La Escultura de Stroessner” Stroessner’s Sculpture 🙂Caryota urens is part of the palm family and is not native to Paraguay.I never get tired of the incredible murals in all of the cities we’ve visited. It gives life to even the areas in need of more love. National Pantheon of HeroesThe view of the ceiling/dome inside of the National Pantheon of Heroes.The Paraguayan flag in stained glass. Central Station Railway Museum. The station opened in June 1861.They have some of the old rail cars still on the tracks. Up-cycled sculpture near the Chacarita neighborhood. The Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of the AssumptionThe view of Palacio de López from the Negroni rooftop bar.The view of the park at Costanera de Asunción, the Bay of Asunción and the Héroes del Chaco Bridge. Sunset on the Negroni Rooftop.
What’s with the title you may ask? Adding “guay” to the end of words, especially in informal contexts, is a common and recognizable slang expression in Paraguay, meaning “cool” or “awesome.” The word “guay” itself is a Spanish borrowing from the Guaraní language, which is spoken by the indigenous people of Paraguay. (Google and YouTube)
So, anyguay, I really wanted to dedicate my last post just to Patagonia so here is what we’ve been up to during our time in Buenos Aires, and our first weekend in Asunción, Paraguay. The day after we got back from Patagonia we took a tour to the Tigre Delta. It is hard to not compare and it wasn’t as good as our other tours we’ve taken with Viator. We took a bus to the Town of Tigre about an hour from Buenos Aires and after taking some pictures of the Museo de Arte Tigre we boarded a ferry to visit the Paraná Delta. Which is a vast river delta where the Paraná River flows into the Río de la Plata. From the ferry we got to see the Buenos Aires Rowing Club which was founded in 1873 and is the oldest rowing club in Argentina. We also saw Puerto de Frutos (Fruit Market) and Costa Park which is the largest theme park in Argentina. The tour to Tigre was only a half day so when we got back to Buenos Aires we went and visited Recoleta Cemetery which is very large, has several famous people entombed there, including Eva Perón, and has some of the most beautiful stained glass I’ve ever seen.
On the 24th our friends from Ljubljana, Slovenia that we met in Patagonia came to Buenos Aires for a couple days before they returned home. It was so nice to have friends to hang out with! On the 25th I got to explore La Boca with them during the day, and then we met up with Dave after work and had some amazing provoleta fundida at El Refuerzo, which ended up being our favorite restaurant in Buenos Aires. So much so that we visited two more times before we left. The second visit was actually the next night because our amazing server Olivia invited us to come back and do a food and wine pairing. Very serendipitously she just happened to have two open spots and it was only $30/ per person. It was fun to drink good wine, try some unique food and meet people from Brazil, Argentina and Australia.
Overall we found that the food in Buenos Aires really isn’t that good unless you are a huge carnivore, which I am not, and was pretty flavorless too. I’ve never used more salt in my life. That wasn’t the case at El Refuerzo. We returned for our third and final visit the night before we left and were able to bid our new friend Olivia hasta luego! Getting to know her was definitely a highlight from our time in Buenos Aires.
In the past two weeks we also went to a Tango Show, which was even better than we expected with singing and performing in addition to some incredible dancing. We visited the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral, Teatro Colón, the History and MALBA Museums, and the Botanical Garden.
On March 31st I took my first South American solo trip to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Colonia is just an hour and 15 minute ferry ride across the Río de la Plata estuary from Buenos Aires and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site “Founded by the Portuguese in 1680 on the Río de la Plata, the city was of strategic importance in resisting the Spanish. After being disputed for a century, it was finally lost by its founders. The well-preserved urban landscape illustrates the successful fusion of the Portuguese, Spanish and post-colonial styles.” (whc.unesco.org) It was fun to get a Uruguayan stamp in my passport and the town was super cute! Being on the tip of the peninsula you can see the water from most places you look, the architecture is quaint and well preserved and the streets are lined with gigantic, what Google says, cross bred Sycamore trees, very reminiscent of some I’ve seen in France. I’m glad I went.
We were glad we got to spend time in Buenos Aires and we’re ready to be in a smaller city for a while after being in three huge cities in a row. We are also happy for things to finally be less expensive as well as they were quite pricey in Argentina comparatively. This past Saturday we moved to Asunción, Paraguay for three weeks. We didn’t really know much about Paraguay before we arrived and have enjoyed getting to know more about the people and their culture. Most of the cities we’ve visited so far we have needed to use quite a bit of Spanish. There aren’t a lot of English speakers that we’ve come across and that is even more difficult in Asunción. Their official language isn’t Spanish, it is an indigenous language called Guaraní and is quite different from Spanish. It just adds to the adventure! We are also so happy to have our new friend Tanya living here. We met her though a friend of ours and as you can imagine my heart is very full to have someone to hang out with. I’ve been missing everyone a lot lately, and being able to have a friend to celebrate my 46th birthday with was such a treat! We went and had a delicious meal at Restaurant Su a Korean restaurant in town and having tasty, non-beef, options to choose from, was the icing on the cake! I went to bed that night very content.
Yesterday we went and explored the botanical garden with Tanya in the morning and visited the interesting little History Museum that was in the park. We got to see goats and ostriches and several different species of birds. It was really fun. In the afternoon we explored around our neighborhood which is also called Recoleta. We discovered this cute pedestrian area called La Cuadrita that has several different restaurants and a El Jardín Lunar, which is a cute little alley that has lunar globes attached to willow branches. After that we went to find the colocation place that Dave was hoping to go to while we’re here and actually met someone who was working there and they gave us a tour! It felt like the Universe was taking care of us yet again.
I think we’re going to like it here. Our Air bnb is pretty nice, there are some cool things to see and good food to eat! We did book a trip to Iguazu Falls for next weekend. We’re going to spend two nights in Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil so we are excited to be able to go to Brazil after all, and we booked a tour to see both sides of the falls on Saturday. Everyone that we have talked to about being in this area of South America has mentioned needing to add this destination to our list and we’re grateful that it worked out.
We miss you, we love you and we hope that you are well wherever you are!
Love, Alison
Museo de Arte Tigre-Tigre Club De Regatas La Marina-Rowing ClubChapel of Our Lady of Luján-Tigre DeltaRowers on the Delta. This crew didn’t have their mate in hand but most of them did! 🙂Sarmiento House- Tigre Delta. This house was inhabited back in 1855 by Domingo Sarmiento, the 7th President of Argentina.Puerto de FrutosCosta ParkLa Recoleta Cemetary-Buenos AiresLa Recoleta CemeteryEva Perón’s mausoleumSome of the amazing stained glass in Recoleta Cemetary and Eva Perón’s plaque. The La Boca neighborhood is considered the birthplace of Tango. You can see the small window by the lamp post. The sign says “ring the bell for empanadas” La Boca is a fun place to explore.There are a lot of interesting wall sculptures in La Boca. There are also several sculptures in the windows of the brightly colored buildings. La Boca just oozes culture and history. On our way to meet Dave we caught some Tango in the park. Provoleta fundida at El RefuerzoFood and wine pairing at El RefuerzoThe band at the Mansion Tango, Tango Show. The Tango show had incredible singers as well as dancers. EvitaBuenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral. This is the cathedral that the current Pope, Pope Francis, came from. The altar. Choir Stalls. The ceiling of the Mausoleo del Gral. Jose de San Martin. Teatro ColónTeatro ColónThis tour was very cool!Stained glass ceiling at the Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum)Museo Histórico NacionalWedgwood Jasperware cheese dome. Museo Histórico Nacional“O Impossivel” (“The Impossible” by Maria Martins. Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)“La Grande Dame (The Cat Woman)” By Leonora Carrington. MALBAThis piece is untitled by Mariano Dal Verme. I thought it was cool because it is created completely with graphite leads, like the ones you find in mechanical pencils, and paper. MALBAThis amazing little diorama is part of the Kuitca 86 exhibit at MALBA“Life is what makes the work of art” by Lucrecia Lionti and is part of her “Fabril La Mirada (Industrial Look)” Exhibit at MALBAJardín Botánico Carlos Thays. Buenos Aires. Jardín Botánico Carlos ThaysJardín Botánico Carlos Thays is definitely a cool place to visit when your in Buenos Aires and it is free!The sycamore lined streets of Colonia, Uruguay. The Puerta de la Ciudadela/Portón del Campo. ColoniaBasilica of the Blessed Sacrament. Colonia.Faro de Colonia del Sacramento.ColoniaPlaya Las Delicias. Colonia del Sacramento.The amazing sky!The view of the Basilica of the Blessed Sacrament from my hostel in Colonia. Our last night in Buenos Aires at El RefuerzoDave couldn’t leave town without getting the bife de chorizo! 😉The History Museum at Botanical Garden of Asunción. Asunción, ParaguayTanya’s sweet little puppo was terrified and clingy to her for dear life. There was some cool stuff to see. The goats at the Botanical Garden of Asunción had the coolest horns! Asunción, ParaguayOstrichGreen-barred WoodpeckerCampo FlickerGiant LilypadsMonk ParakeetsLa Cuadrita. AsunciónEl Jardín Lunar (The Lunar Garden)El Jardín Lunar
We just spent a week in Argentinian Patagonia and all I can say is WOW! I was completely, and in the actual sense of the word literally, blown away!
After visiting Perito Moreno Glacier on the 14th I posted this on my personal Instagram; “I know that this is an excessive amount of photos, and trying to choose 20 from the 220 I took today was difficult, to say the least. How do you share what it is like to visit a place you’ve dreamed of with the people that matter the most? For me, it is through pictures, and this is only the beginning of it. Thank you for walking alongside me throughout this most epic adventure!”
Now here we are 8 days, 873 pictures and 146,765 steps later (hitting a personal record of 31, 095 on St. Patrick’s Day-13.36mi/21.5kms). To say I am in awe of and humbled by Patagonia still doesn’t do it justice. Hopefully the pictures I share with you will begin to try.
I’m so grateful to Dave for all the research he did leading up to this part of the adventure. Knowing that we only had a week in this massive region I imagine it was hard to choose where to even begin and he absolutely killed it! Everything went spectacularly well, including having the most uninterrupted time together since we went to Greece last June! From the hikes, to the excursions, from the transitions between towns, to the hotels, busses, planes and the delicious food, we truly couldn’t have asked for a better experience. It was a once in a lifetime trip and I hope we make it back someday!
I’m going to use my photos to share more of the story. Enjoy!
PS You know how much I love a good alliteration and it has been a while since I used one for a chapter title so I asked Dave for help. He asked ChatGPT. Granted we thought of this chapter’s title on our own, I thought you might enjoy reading through some of the suggestions.
ChatGPT:
“Sure! Here are some alliterative blog title ideas for Patagonia:
– **”Patagonia: Peaks, Plains, and Pristine Beauty”**
– **”Pursuing Patagonia: Peaks, Penguins, and Pure Wilderness”**
– **”Patagonia’s Pristine Paradise: Peaks, Pumas, and Perilous Paths”**
– **”Pastoral Patagonia: Peaks, Pampas, and Perfect Adventures”**
– **”Patagonia’s Powerful Pull: Peaks, Passes, and Patagonia’s Wild Heart”**
Would you like something more adventure-focused, wildlife-themed, or poetic?
Got it! Here are some alliterative blog title ideas based on hiking, glaciers, tough trails, wild weather, and stunning views in Patagonia:
– **”Patagonia’s Perilous Paths: Hiking Through Peaks, Pain, and Paradise”**
– **”Glaciers, Gales, and Glory: A Hiker’s Patagonia Passage”**
– **”Pushing Through Patagonia: Wind, Rain, and Rewarding Views”**
– **”Patagonia’s Peaks and Perils: Sun, Storms, and Spectacular Scenery”**
– **”Treacherous Trails and Towering Glaciers: Patagonia’s Wild Wonders”**
– **”Battling Blizzards and Basking in Beauty: Patagonia’s Hiking Highs”**
– **”Windswept Wonders: Patagonia’s Peaks, Passes, and Perilous Paths”**
– **”Rugged Roads and Radiant Rewards: The Patagonia Hiking Experience”**
Let me know if you’d like any tweaks!”
Day 1. We flew into El Calafate from Buenos Aires on March 13th and got a glimpse of Mount Fitz Roy!As well as the spectacular Lago Argentino. Which is the largest fresh water lake in Argentina. (You will realize very quickly that I struggle to find more adjectives to describe how incredibly beautiful Patagonia is!)We checked into our hotel, Jardin El Calafate, which was perfectly situated between the lake and the town and then went out to explore. The weather was absolutely spectacular, which we had heard doesn’t always happen in Patagonia, so we took advantage of it. Our first stop, after pizza and beer at Patagonia Brewing, was to Reserva Laguna Nimez. Reserva Laguna Nimez“Must Love Dogs!” They are everywhere in El Calafate! These two cuties accompanied us all the way from the Reserva to town and then waited for us outside of Don Luis for us while we had our first yerba mate experience. Which was about 1.5 km. They were great tour guides 😉 They showed us the kite boarders that were taking advantage of the epic wind. Cerro CalafateThis guy jumped in to play with the kite boarders 🙂And the beautiful horses all at Reserva Laguna Nimez which is a part of Lago Argentino. Our first yerba mate experience at Don Luis. Yerba mate is a plant native to South America and we quickly realized that EVERYONE carries around their little gourd cup, special straw and thermos of hot whatever wherever they go. Walking, bike riding, scootering, and even rowing. South Americans love their mate! It was fun to experience.I came to enjoy the ritual of it as well. And thought the mate circle that formed on your hand from the initial mixing of the leaves was pretty cool too. This is later on in the trip at Mathilda in El Chaltén. And one more for the road after our last hike in El Chalten. We finished up our first night in El Calafate with a walk through the Paseo de Artesanos to get a view from above. The sunset was beautiful. This cloud reminded me of an angel’s wing.And we got to see the beginning of the first total lunar eclipse since November 2022. It is cool to think that you saw it too, wherever you are in the world. It was a great first day!Day 2 in Patagonia we planned an excursion to Perito Moreno Glacier. In my last post I claimed it is one of the only glaciers that is growing and that is not completely true. It is one of the only glaciers that is stabilized. This is one of the amazing views from the bus on our way to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares.We even caught a glimpse of Torres del Paine which is in Chilean Patagonia. There’s just so much to see!!!We made a stop after we entered Parque Nacional Los Glaciares to get our first views of Perito Moreno. It was explained to us that the ice bergs look so blue because all the air has been removed due to the years of compacting the layers. The contrast with the lake and the mountains is truly spectacular! Perito Moreno Glacier from afar. We chose to take a boat ride on Lago Argentino instead of walking on the glacier to get a different perspective. Even though I almost got pushed over the railing by another tourist to get this shot, it was worth it! More views from the boat.The people who chose the walking on the glacier option. This picture shows how close the glacier is to the shore. When it touches the shore they call it a rupture. Because the glacier touches the bottom of the lake when it comes in contact with the shore it blocks the water to the other side. Later when we walked on the path you could see the line up the shore where nothing grew because of this blockage. Ruptures have happened several times. The first recorded event was in 1917 and the last one happened in 2019.Views from the pathI was obsessed with this mountain the looked like a shark fin and found out that is what it is called. Shark Fin Mountain. 🙂This blue should be entitled beyond because that is how I felt looking at it. The sun came out and really brought out the color in the water as well. Nearing the end of the walkways you continue to be awe inspired by the beauty of Los Glaciares National Park and Lago Argentino.We entitled this one “dragonberg” because, well, we thought it looked like a dragon. Remnants of the rupture. Day 3 in El Calafate we hiked to a mirador to try and get a better view of above town and the lake. We saw some cool rock formations and condors. Saw some far off mountains. Lago ArgentinoMore sweet puppos with funny ways of lounging.Then we went to the Centro de Interpretación Historica and saw some cool dinosaur skeletons.Megaterio!Day 4 in Patagonia, Sunday March 16th, we took the bus to El Chaltén. We checked into our apartment, got some food at Mathilda and then went out to explore. First we walked along the Río de las Vueltas. I love love especially when I find it in nature. 🙂Río de las VueltasCerro TorreAfter we visited the Ranger Station to get the forecast from the best Patagonian meteorologists and plan out our hikes for the next three days we decided to hike to the waterfall, Chorrillo Del Salto. You’re going to see a lot of pictures of this amazing valley. Chorrillo Del SaltoIt was raining most of the hike so it was nice to have the sweet treat of a rainbow once we arrived. It is turning to fall in Patagonia so it was fun to see some of the contrast of color. Day 5 (Day 2 in El Chaltén) the sun came out so we decided to hike to the Mirador de Mount Fitz Roy with hopes of getting our first view of it since the plane. We made it to the Mirador and it was gorgeous! Unfortunately the clouds had other plans and decided to hang on blocking our full view of Mount Fitz Roy. It’s there I promise! 🙂It still was a wonderful hike with incredible views!We had a great time! After lunch we did the Los Cóndores and Las Águilas lookout hike. It had more incredible views. Mount Fitz Roy was still trying to make its way out of the storm clouds. Walking toward the Eagle lookout side of the mountain. Peeking peaksBy the end of the hike, I had a record day for steps, and we thought this view of Mount Fitz Roy was pretty spectacular!Until we woke up the next morning, Day 6, and got the clearest most spectacular view that we had since we arrived! Another incredible view on our way to Huemul Glacier. Hike to Huemul GlacierRio TúnelValley views with fall colors.More Mount Fitz Roy in all its glory!Lago del DesiertoHuemul GlacierLago Huemul and the GlacierPerfectly picturesqueDay 7, Our last day in El Chaltén, we hiked to the Mirador Cerro Torre. On the way we got a great view of Cascada Margarita.Fitz Roy RiverCerro TorreEven though we were hiking in the rain we were still able to get some beautiful views!We finished off the day, for the second night in a row, eating the best pizza we’ve had in a very long time at Laborum. YUM!!!!Day 8 we took the bus back to El Calafate for one more night. Since we were able to already explore there we took the evening to rest and reflect upon our most epic adventure ever! This is a view of Lago Argentino from our bus. The view from the lobby at our hotel Blanco Patagonia. The view from our room at Lago Argentino. Our place coming back from dinner. Love me some blue hour!Until next time Patagonia!
The past two weeks in Chile were wonderful. I feel like throughout this adventure, at least since we realized we need more than one week in a place, that three weeks is my sweet spot. When we were originally planning our time in Chile we were debating about whether or not we should spend one of the weeks at the coast. When we did the research we found that if you wanted to get to the coast from Santiago there weren’t any trains and that you’d have to take a bus, since we didn’t want to rent a car. Then we realized that it was only an additional $35 to stay an extra week at our Air BnB, which was too good of a deal to pass up, so that is how we ended up spending four weeks in Santiago. After our day trip to the coast we received the validation we needed that that was the right choice. I’m glad we were able to see Vina del Mar and Valparaiso, and I’m glad we didn’t spend a week there!
We definitely had some new adventures in the last two weeks! On February 25th we experienced our first international blackout. I was out exploring and received a text from Dave that said “I’m assuming the power is out?” I hadn’t noticed as the stoplights were still working, for the most part, but then I noticed that a lot of the stores were dark or closed. Then I became aware the streets started getting more crowded with people. Dave had to leave work since he didn’t have the internet and so we met up and took it all in together. The people on the street were lined up around the block waiting for buses since they weren’t able to take the subway. It was quite a sight to see. I will say the biggest thing I noticed was, much like in Mexico City, everyone just waited patiently even though the sun was out and it was 85 degrees. No one was pushing or shoving or yelling like I feel it would’ve been in the States. Such a different way of life and I am here for it. I was thankful Dave and I were together when we returned to our building because the stairwell was pitch black so we had to use our cell phone lights to make the 16 story climb up to our apartment. Luckily the keypad to unlock the door was separate from the universal electrical grid so we were able to get inside and by 8 o’clock at night it wasn’t too hot. Also, fortunately, the power came back on around 1130pm and everything was fine the next day. We learned that one of the transformers went out in the north of Chile and knocked out power for 14 of the 16 regions, yikes!
On the 26th we celebrated 18 months of this adventure! Dave had to work late that night so we went out to dinner at a French restaurant called Baco on the 27th. I had some of the best sea bass I have ever eaten and everything was so delicious I forgot to take pictures of any of it! The only picture I took inside the restaurant was of the sauce that splattered on the table cloth from the huevo meurette, which is a classic Burgundian dish consisting of poached eggs served with a rich, red wine sauce, often featuring bacon, onions, and shallots, that we gobbled down. We also had baked camembert and delicious wine. It was a great way to mark the major milestone.
March 1st we took our third tour while in Santiago with Viator to see the Andes Mountains and the Inca Lagoon and it was truly spectacular! Our first stop was to get a view of the highest mountain in all the Americas called the Aconcagua, 6,960meters (22,834 feet) above sea level and is located in Argentina. The Andes Mountains are breathtaking to say the least. All the layers reminded me of those construction paper art projects that we did in elementary school where you tear the paper and then layer it on top of each other. Anyway, it was a clear day so we were able to see Aconcagua in all its glory! After seeing the mountain we went to In Situ Family Vineyards and got to try more of the delicious Carmenere that we’ve grown to love. As we continued our trip through the mountains we stopped at Ventisquero Guardia Vieja which was basically a roadside restaurant that had llamas and more beautiful views. On our way to the Inca Lagoon we took Los Libertadores International Pass and Los Caracoles Route which has “29 tough switchbacks on a steep incline, it is also one of the most difficult roads in the world to travel. The road begins on the Chilean side, with a steep climb, approximately 50 kilometers from Los Andes and 70 kilometers from Santiago” (Google) This road is impressive to say the least and there are zero guard rails! In the winter skiers ski down over the structures that cover the road to which I say no thank you. Our last stop for the day was the beautiful Inca Lagoon at Portillo Ski Hill. We ate lunch at Tio Bob’s the restaurant at the resort overlooking the lake and then were able to walk around and explore a little before we returned to Santiago. It was a wonderful day and was well worth it!
Last week we took advantage of the extra time we had in Santiago and it was nice and relaxing. I went to the top of the Gran Torre in the Costenara Center which was pretty spectacular with its 360 degree views of Santiago and the surrounding mountains. We also ate at some pretty delicious restaurants. We went to Margo Isadora on Sunday for lunch and it was spectacular! I also ate at El Camino Diner where I had my first dill pickles since we left Santa Fe and they were fried too! Yum! And I also ate at another French restaurant called Le Bistrot de Gaetan which had a truffle fettuccine that dreams are made of! I will say the food in Santiago did not disappoint and we can’t wait to go back and visit some day!
On Saturday we made a very seamless transition to Buenos Aires. I was ecstatic to learn that it is safe to drink the tap water here especially since we haven’t been able to do that since we left Santa Fe. We have a very comfortable and spacious Air BnB in the Recoleta neighborhood. After getting settled we went and had dinner at Pizzería Güerrín that was recommended to us by a friend in Santiago and has been making delicious pizza since 1932. The restaurant is located in the bustling Theater District and feels very much like NYC! We walked around a little after dinner and saw the obelisk (Obelisco de Buenos Aires), the outside of the Teatro Colón and walked past the Plaza Lavalle which is one of the many city parks.
Yesterday we got to see more of the city in the daylight. We had a delicious brunch at Dandy Santa Fe on our way to Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur which is a beautiful nature preserve near the water. After that we walked to Puerto Madero which is a cute area that has a bunch of restaurants along the Rio Dique and saw the Puente de la Mujer (the women’s bridge). We finished our walking tour in San Templo where there was a bustling street market and lots of antique shops and interesting architecture. Buenos Aires definitely has a cool mixture of old and new when it comes to architecture and I’m looking forward to seeing more of it before we leave on April 5th.
On Thursday we make our way to Patagonia for a week and I am very excited to finally get to see the geographical region that we have been dreaming about visiting for years. We will spend some time in El Calafate where we have an excursion booked to visit Perito Moreno Glacier. It is noteworthy because it is one of the few glaciers in the world that is growing instead of retreating. Then we’ll spend a few days in El Chalten where we are planning on doing several hikes with hopes of catching some views of the amazing Mt. Fitz Roy. Mt. Fitz Roy is 11,171 feet tall and is the mountain on the border of Argentina and Chile. You may also recognize it from the logo for the Patagonia clothing line. 🙂 I have no doubt that it will be spectacular! We miss our people and are sending you love wherever you are!
Alison 🙂
The National Fine Arts Museum-SantiagoPeople in the streets and waiting for the bus during the blackoutThe table cloth at Baco after our delicious meal to celebrate 18 months of this adventure ?Stop #1 on the Andes Mountains and Inca Lagoon tour-Andes MountainsAconcaguaStop #2: In Situ Family Winery. Vineyards and Andes MountainsIn SituStop #3: Ventisquero Guardia ViejaVentisquero Guardia Vieja-Llama Stop and Andes MountainsStop #4: Los Caracoles (snails in Spanish)Los CaracolesStop #5 Portillo Ski Resort-9,450 feetMore amazing views of the Andes MountainsFirst view of the Inca Lagoon from inside Tio Bob’s Restaurant-PortilloInca LagoonInca LagoonSeared ahi tuna and caprese risotto at Margo IsidoraSky Costanera-The top of Gran Torre SantiagoView from the top of Gran TorreMore viewsMore views with reflections 🙂Fried pickles at El Camino Diner with ranch dressing. They’re after my little Midwestern heart! The truffle fettuccine and mushrooms of my dreams at Bistro de Gaetan. Needless to say I ate well in Santiago 🙂The view of the Obelisk from the Theater District-Buenos Aires Another cool view of the ObeliskTeatro Colón- I need to figure out how I can see the inside as I hear it is pretty spectacular!One of the amazing Banyan trees found in several of the parks here. Reminds me of Hawaii 🙂Another amazing Banyan tree. The branch to the left is so huge that it has supports keeping it up. This one reminds me of Angel Oak near Charleston. Look at how long the branch is!Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur-Buenos AiresCool plants at the Nature Reserve (floating aquatic ferns)Rouen DucksWattled Jacana (I saw a funny meme recently that said something like, you spend your whole life not caring about birds and then one day you’re like oh my goodness there’s a (insert bird name here)! And I felt that! 🙂Puerto Madero with the Puente de la Mujer in the backgroundPuente de la MujerSome of the skyline along the Rio DiqueBuque Museo Fragata “ARA Presidente Sarmiento is a museum ship in Argentina, originally built as a training ship for the Argentine Navy and named after Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, the seventh President of Argentina. It is considered to be the last intact cruising training ship from the 1890s”This is the Customs Building. Just an example of some of the architecture here. It feels very European to me. This Mafalda statue is near the edge of the San Temlo Neighborhood. She was created by Argentinian artist Quino. Who addressed “Feminism, the media, communism and consumerism,– Quino’s strip-cartoon Mafalda managed to address all these issues from the innocent, but incisive, perspective of a six-year-old girl” (Google)Mafalda’s friend ManolitoThe very crowded street market in San Temlo-Bueno Aires“Don’t cry for me Argentina”Cool architecture and street art. I think we’re going to find a lot of both here! 🙂
Santiago is a beautiful city! I have learned SO much since I’ve been here. In the couple weeks that we’ve been in Chile several people have told us that it is considered an island. I looked it up and this is what Google said:
Its unique character is given by Chile’s status as a “biogeographic island,” which means that it is naturally isolated by the Atacama Desert in the north and by the Andes Mountains, which act as a natural barrier.
It is also the longest country in the world when measured from North to South. Because of this “Chile experiences a variety of climates, but can be broadly categorized as having four main climate types: tropical, Mediterranean, temperate, and subpolar oceanic, with significant variations depending on altitude and latitude across the country; essentially encompassing most climate types except for truly tropical weather.” (Google)
I had the realization after going to about 20 bookstores between Mexico City and Santiago trying to find the next book in my series that that wasn’t going to be as easy and it has been on this adventure so far. This made sense to me when I realized that the closest English speaking country is the United States. Luckily Dave supported me biting the bullet and buying a Kindle and I’m SO happy I did. It makes a huge difference, especially since I’ve been able to get my luggage down to two good sized backpacks for this leg of the trip. Not having to carry the physical books with me gives me more space and weight for souvenirs. 😉
It has been fun meeting people since we’ve been here and going on excursions has been a great way to do that! On the 15th we took a wine tour to the Maipo Valley. We met a couple from Lima on that tour and plan on meeting up with them when we go to Lima the end of April. The Isla de Maipo, as they call it, is a beautiful wine region in the Santiago Metropolitan area that is referred to as the “Bordeaux of South America.” We visited four different wineries and discovered our new favorite wine Carménère. We had never heard of this grape varietal before and it has a pretty cool story. It is originally a French grape from the Cabernet family and was used to make Merlot wines. The story goes that someone from France came over and tasted the Chilean Merlot and compared it to the French Merlot and was confused by how different it tasted. So then a scientist from Montpellier, where I studied abroad, came to Chile around 1950 and did some analysis on the grape. They discovered that it wasn’t actually Merlot it was 100% Carménère. This was an amazing discovery because back in the 1860s a phylloxera plague had wiped out all the vineyards in Bordeaux including the Carménère plantings. The climate of Chile, as I described earlier, was able to help the plants here be immune to that plague. We thought that was super cool and are grateful for the discovery because it is delicious! 🙂
In the past couple weeks we’ve enjoyed exploring Santiago and its many beautiful parks and hills that offer spectacular views. I went to Parque Metropolitano I went to the Japanese Garden and took the teleférico (cable car) up San Cristóbal Hill to see the statue of the “Blessed Virgin Mary.” I visited the home of the famous Chilean poet Pablo Neruda and walked around the Barrio Bellavista to see the amazing murals and mosaics. I also visited Parque Bicentenario and saw the amazing sculpture of five cyclists entitled “La Búsqueda.” I walked to Parque Araucano and visited the aviary which included Cockatiels and the food truck court. Together we visited the Jardin Mapulemu, the Plaza des Armas, and La Moneda Palace.
This past weekend, on Saturday, we the took a 30 minute Uber ride to the incredible Templo Bahá’í. It is a spectacular site tucked in the foothills of the Andes Mountains with a great view over Santiago. Before I visited I didn’t know much about the Bahá’í faith. It was awesome to learn about how welcoming and inclusive it is. Originally founded in Persia in 1863 it is considered one of the “newest” religions. The tour guide shared that any faith or religion is welcome to worship at the temple. Their foundation is one of peace and unity that directly aligns with my soul. I left feeling very deeply that the world is in desperate need of a more open spirit that the Bahá’í people promote. You weren’t allowed to take pictures inside of the temple but one of the verses engraved on the translucent Portuguese marble that stood out to me was, Tu eres mi lámpara y mi luz esta en ti. You are my lamp and my light is in you.
After we visited the temple we went to Viña Cousiño Macul. Which is the second oldest winery in Chile founded in 1856. It was a really special tour where we learned for the first time the story behind what makes a wine “full bodied.” Our amazing tour guide told us that back when wine makers used the gigantic oak barrels for fermenting they didn’t have a way to mix up the stems and skins of the grapes that floated to the top so people would swim in the barrels to do the mixing. Because of the alcohol content in the wine sometimes the swimmer would pass away inside the barrel hence having the wine be called “full bodied.” ? I am not sure how much truth is behind that story and we thought is was a creative take on something we had not heard before. 🙂
Yesterday, we took another Viator tour to the coast. First we visited the flower clock, the only Moai in mainland Chile, and the fish market of Vina del Mar. Then we went to Valparaiso where we took the funicular up to Paseo Yugoslavo and then walked through the spectacular Barrio Galvan where there are innumerable murals. We had a lovely seafood lunch overlooking the port and then finished the day at the Casas de Bosque winery. I can’t say enough good things about Viator tours. We have enjoyed every single one.
We still have two more weeks in Santiago and are looking forward to savoring every minute before we leave for Buenos Aires on the 8th of March. We hope to go up to the top of Gran Torre and see the view from there and we have some restaurants that we still need to eat at like Baco (on Thursday). Next weekend we have one more excursion planned on Saturday to an Inca Lagoon and the Andes Mountains. We are very thankful for everything that we are able to see, do, and learn about. I hope everyone is well and cared for. Sending, as always, a universe of light and love to you wherever you are!
Alison 🙂
The first stop on the Maipo Valley tour. The view of Isla de Maipo.Amazing cacti at the viewpointSecond stop-Campo La Quirinca WinerySilky chicken at Campo La Quirinca WineryCool old vineCampo La Quirinca Winery is also an organic farm.The third stop on the Maipo Valley Tour-Santa Ema Winery.Santa Ema WineryDelicious rose, carmenere and merlot.The fourth and final stop-Undurraga Winery.Les totems Mapuche-Undurraga Winery.Undurraga WineryUndurraga WinerySanctuary of the Immaculate Conception-San Cristobal HillThe inside of the Sanctuary of the Immaculate ConceptionThe Blessed Virgin MaryThe view from the Blessed Virgin Mary-San Cristobal HillBlessed Virgin MaryView point on the way down the hill. I was going to try and walk the whole way but there wasn’t enough shade and it is HOT in Chile!Pablo Neruda’s HousePablo NerudaHe named this residence La ChasconaPablo Neruda’s SealSome of the amazing murals and mosaics found in Barrio BellavistaParque Bicentenario“La Búsqueda”Parque BicentenarioSculptures outside of the entrance to Parque AraucanoOne of the aviaries at Parque AraucanoCockatiels-Parque AraucanoFood “truck” court-Parque AraucanoJapanese Garden inside of Parque Metropolitano. Gran Torre in the background. Japanese Garden with San Cristobal Hill in the backgroundJapanese GardenJapanese GardenGran Torre.The view from Jardin MapulemuThe view from Jardin Mapulemu. I feel like it looks so much like Palm Springs, CaliforniaPlaza des ArmasLa Moneda PalaceTemplo Bahá’í de SudaméricaTemplo Bahá’íThe view from Templo Bahá’íTemplo Bahá’íTemplo Bahá’íA picture of the interior of Templo Bahá’íViña Cousiño MaculWhere the “full bodied” legend began 🙂The wine library-Viña Cousiño MaculThe old barrel room at Viña Cousiño Macul. This tunnel was designed with not enough air flow so they had to poor out all the wine that had spoiled and build an entire new room!There was a Cabernet in this room from 1937.Llamas at the stop on the way to Vina del MarVina del Mar flower clockThe only Moai on mainland Chile is similar to the ones found on Easter Island. Vina del MarSea lions surfing the waves under the pier at the fish market in Vina del Mar.The view of Valparaiso from Paseo YugoslavoValparaisoValparaisoPaseo YugoslavoPaseo YugoslavoLove in natureBarrio GalvanBarrio GalvanLunch View-ValparaisoHake lunch with spicy pepper sauce for our fries Some of the many amazing murals in Barrio Galvan, ValparisoViña Casas del BosqueViña Casas del BosqueViña Casas del Bosque
Happy belated Lunar New Year! The Year of the Snake signifies a time of personal growth, transformation, and wisdom. For me it also means continuing to shed what no longer serves me. I arrived in Mexico City on January 28th to kick off the Lunar New Year after Dave and I had a great time with friends and family in Vegas and Puerto Vallarta respectively. It was our first solo international transition since we began this adventure almost 18 months ago and Dave’s first time in Mexico! Thankfully the universe took care of us both and everything worked out. It was nice that Dave arrived in Mexico City a few days before me so that he could help me navigate my arrival to our Air BnB.
I’m SO glad that we came to Mexico City. Originally we were trying to think of a place where we could meet up before continuing on to South America and since we had never visited and had heard good things we figured why not? It definitely did not disappoint. Our Air Bnb was nice, spacious and didn’t stink!? It was located in a safe and walkable area of Roma Norte. That area is vibrant and full of trees and many parks. The food in Mexico City is diverse and delicious! And the people, even though there are 25 million living in the metro area, were warm and gracious. We already can’t wait to return!
On Saturday February 1st, we booked a tour to Teotihuacán. “Teotihuacan is a vast Mexican archaeological complex northeast of Mexico City. Running down the middle of the site, which was once a flourishing pre-Columbian city, is the Avenue of the Dead. It links the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, the Pyramid of the Moon and the Pyramid of the Sun, the latter two with panoramic views from their summits. Artifacts in the Museum of Teotihuacan Culture, on-site, include pottery and bones.” (Google) You can no longer climb the Pyramid of the Sun and Moon in an effort to preserve them and it was still a site to behold.
On Sunday we explored Chapultepec Park where we came across the Danza de los Voladores “Dance of the Flyers is a traditional Mexican ritual that involves performers climbing a pole and then swinging down to mimic the flight of birds”. It was impressive to see how they climb up the 98 foot pole and adjust their ropes to wrap around their bodies and support them while they “fly”. All this while a person is standing on the top of the pole playing music! Incredible! After the spectacle we visited the massive Anthropological Museum. We spent three hours there and still didn’t see it all.
One of the sites on top of all the “must do” lists was the Frida Kahlo House and Museum. We learned while chatting with someone on Sunday that Monday was the beginning of art week and when I tried to book a ticket to the museum all of the time slots were already sold out for the entire week! I put my research skills to work and found a tour on Viator that included the Frida Kahlo Museum. It was my first solo tour and I’m so glad I went! We started our day at Plateria Rafael which is a silver factory that has been in business since 1970. We were given a small demonstration of the hand carvings done on silver by the owner who has been doing it for 60 years! We continued our tour with a visit to Coyoacan which is the neighborhood where the Frida Kahlo Museum is located. We took a tour of the square and the Parroquia de San Juan Bautista before we walked over to the museum for the visit. I definitely understand why it is a “must see”! You are able to walk through the house that Frida and Diego lived in. You’re able to stand in their kitchen, bedroom and artist studio. You can see the different medical devices she had to wear, her clothing and her designs. You can also see the progression of her art from when she was very young. It is a very special place. The next stop on the tour was to the Olympic Stadium, Estadio Olímpico Universitario, that is located across the street from the National University (UNAM) and has one of the last murals that Diego Rivera, Frida’s husband, ever created. The library on the university campus was what I found to be the most spectacular. Juan O’Gorman and Carlos Lazo worked together to design the museum. They used natural stones to make a mosaic mural entitled “Historical Representation of Culture.” The day finished with a boat ride in Xochimilco which is the last remnants of a vast water transport system built by the Aztecs. The trajineras, which are colorful flat bottom boats, similar to gondolas, are beautifully decorated. It was a fun way to finish the day serenaded by mariachi music.
On Friday the 7th we took an 8-hour overnight flight from Mexico City to Santiago, Chile where we will be for four weeks. Our apartment in the Providencia neighborhood of Santiago is lovely, comfortable and also doesn’t stink. See: low standards from my previous posts. 🙂 It has a great view of the Gran Torre, which is the tallest tower in Latin America, and the foothills of the Andes Mountains. It is also safe and walkable. We had fun exploring the Lastarria neighborhood on Saturday after a long nap. We had a delicious meal at Holy Moly and then climbed the Santa Lucia Hill which is a beautiful park that provided great views of the city and surrounding mountains. I’m so thankful we have an extended amount of time here. It gives a more relaxed vibe since we aren’t stressed about cramming it all in. We have several excursions planned for while we’re here which we’re excited about. The first one is this Saturday. We’re taking a wine tasting tour to the Maipo Valley which is sure to be a blast. We’ve learned so much since we’ve been on this adventure and valuing quality time in the cities we are staying is one of them. I think we’re gonna like it here! ?
Sending you love and light wherever you are!
Alison ?
First night’s sunset at RIU Palace Pacifico in Puerto VallartaOne of the perks of being an early riser- Puerto VallartaMy first time seeing baby turtles hatch! Puerto VallartaThe view from our rooftop in Roma Norte-Mexico CityCool patio design at Cantina La Llorona-Mexico CityGaudi-Mexico CityMonumento a la RevoluciónPalacio de Quetzalpapálotl-Near the Pyramid of the Moon-Teotihuacan-MexicoPalacio de QuetzalpapálotlPalacio de QuetzalpapálotlPalacio de QuetzalpapálotlPyramid of the Moon-TeotihuacanAvenue of the Dead-TeotihuacanPyramid of the SunPyramid of the SunTeotihuacan Village ruins with the Pyramid of the Sun in the backgroundTemplo de Quetzalcóatl is the one pyramid at Teotihuacan that you can climbAfter our tour we enjoyed a drink on the rooftop of the Hotel Sofitel which had an incredible view!Danza de los Voladores in Chapultepec ParkDanza de los Voladores Mayan Dancers in Chapultepec ParkMayan DancersThe Anthropological Museum-Mexico CityThe Anthropological MuseumThe creation of textiles in The Anthropological MuseumMexican ceramics (Check out the Instagram tab on my blog’s homepage to see more pictures from the museum)The view of Mexico City from the Cable Bus that only costs 7 pesos!View from the Cable BusMeowParque Mexico- In the Condesa Neighborhood near our apartment“Respect for trees, plants and grass is an unequivocal sign of culture” Parque MexicoAngel of IndependencePlateria Rafael (Tour Stop #1)Fuente de los Coyotes-Coyoacán, Mexico (Stop #2)Parroquia San Juan Bautista (Catholic Church)-Coyoacán (Stop #3)Family Portrait (Unfinished)-Frida Kahlo House and Museum (Stop #4)When Frida was stuck in bed after one of you many surgeries her mother installed a mirror on the ceiling and she started painting self portraits.Frida and Diego’s bedroomKitchen (I love the doves)Art StudioArt suppliesThe Year of the SnakeFrida and Diego’s GardenView from the gardenLove all of the bright colors!Back brace and hospital attire.Some of the clothes Frida wore.Her designsI would 100% wear this outfit!The Olympic Stadium with one of Diego Rivera’s last murals. (Stop #5)The library at the National University of Mexico City (Stop #6)Library at UNAMI was obviously obsessed 🙂Muchas trajineras a Xochimilco (Stop #7)Muy lindoThe Mariachi do not mess aroundMas trajineras- What a great way to end the very full day!The view of the Gran Torre-Providencia, Santiago, ChileLooking down our stairwell from the 16th floorEntering the park at Santa Lucia Hill-Lastarria, SantiagoCastillo Hidalgo-Cerro Santa Lucía (Santa Lucia Hill) The view of the Andes Mountains is already getting good and we’re only half way up!Chemamull Statues on the Caupolican Terrace-Santa Lucia HillCaupolican Statue-He was a leader against the Spanish invaders in the 16th centuryBenjamín Vicuña Mackenna Hermitage-A tribute to the politician and writer after his death. The view from the top of Santa Lucia Hill-The Gran Torre and the Andes MountainsThe Sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception on San Cristóbal HillMore incredible views with San Cristóbal Hill on the left.Coming down the hill the sights continued to amaze! This is Fuente Neptuno (Neptune’s Fountain)Hotel Montecarlo-Still 90 degrees at 730pm!
It has been a busy couple weeks since I’ve written. On January 4th we moved out of our Air BnB in Santa Fe, after staying there one week, and into a hotel. It ended up being a blessing in disguise for several reasons; we didn’t have our host harassing us 75 times a day, we had free access to a washer and dryer, so we didn’t have to pay to have someone else wash it for us, nor did I have to haul our laundry over a mile to the closest laundromat, we were closer to the grocery store, and we saved almost $300!
We celebrated giving ourselves what we needed by getting a couples massage after we moved out of our Air BnB. Then we just enjoyed the weekend in town with a visit to the New Mexico History Museum, the Farmer’s Market and a Mercado where there were several booths of people selling their art and wares. The following two weeks flew by with a couple day trips on the train to Albuquerque, which is a beautiful 2hr ride and only $10 round trip. My first trip I visited the Albuquerque Museum which I loved and explored around the Old Town. The second time I spent the day with a friend and we took a walk on the Bosque Trail along the Rio Grande River and had a lovely lunch of delicious pizza at Farina Downtown ABQ.
Back in Santa Fe I went to the Georgia O’Keefe Museum, The Loretto Chapel and the San Miguel Church. I visited the Santa Fe Capitol building which has a very impressive collection of artwork. I also climbed the hill of the Cross of Martyrs. Dave and I visited the New Mexico Museum of Art, The Vladem Contemporary Art Museum and SITE Santa Fe. On Wednesday the 15th I walked to the Botanical Garden and visited the Indian Arts and Culture Museum as well as the International Folk Art Museum which was one of my faves! I am so glad that we bought the Culture Pass when we visited our first museum. It saved us a lot of money and encouraged us to go to places and see things we haven’t before.
On the 16th I finally got in a hike! I took the bus to St. John’s University and hiked some of the Atalaya Trail which provided amazing views. Another highlight was taking a Sunset Serenade train ride on the Sky Railway where inside we enjoyed live music and then we were able to step outside of the train to see the gorgeous landscape and beautiful sunset.
This past weekend we changed locations to Albuquerque for a few nights. We rented a car for Saturday and Sunday and it was so fun to show Dave places that he hadn’t yet had a chance to explore. Saturday we visited Chimayo, Taos and the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. On Sunday we started our day with breakfast at the Range Cafe in Bernalillo. After that we drove through Los Alamos on our way to Bandelier National Monument. Then we finished our day at the Mine Shaft in Madrid which is a cute little town on the Turquoise Trail.
The time has gone so fast! We’ve been in New Mexico almost a month, and it has been wonderful to be back. It is fun to be able to spend some time in ABQ since I only had one evening here last year, and is extra special to have quality time with our friends that we know from Saint Paul who now live in Albuquerque. Together we experienced the fun of the rail car bar at Painted Lady Bed and Brew, we had a yummy dinner at Ex Novo Brewery and went over to their house on Monday to watch the Celtics game. They are fans. 🙂
I’m so grateful for the almost four weeks we spent here before we continue on to Mexico and South America. Dave leaves for a long weekend in Vegas tonight, and I am meeting my dad and sisters in Puerto Vallarta tomorrow, before we meet up in Mexico City on the 28th. Neither of us have ever been and we’re excited to experience the culture and have a taste voyage around the city. Then we’re off to Santiago, Chile for a month starting February 8th. We don’t have any friends that we’re visiting after this next leg of the tour, and so far no one has planned to visit us, so we’re trying to soak up every minute with our people.
I feel like most years January drags and this year it seems to have flown by. I’m going to use that feeling as a reminder to savor every minute. To remain grounded in gratitude for this adventure and this life that Dave and I have chosen. We say hasta luego (see you later) to New Mexico filled with anticipation and excitement for what the future has in store for us. We are manifesting continued intentionality and growth and will continue to go with the flow.
I hope 2025 is off to a good start for you too! Sending you love wherever you are!
Alison 🙂
PS Brace yourself for a plethora of pictures!
New Mexico History Museum, Santa FeNew Mexico History Museum New Mexico History Museum Zozobra. New Mexico History Museum The “Palace Press” Established in 1972. New Mexico History Museum Each/Other-Marie Watt and Cannupa Hanska Luger. Albuquerque MuseumBureau of Indian Affairs, from the series Speechless. Albuquerque MuseumDisease Thrower #17 by Guadalupe Maravilla. Albuquerque MuseumStoryteller. Albuquerque MuseumBorder DoorsBorder DoorsChima Altar III by Luis TapiaMother Earth Sculpture. Albuquerque MuseumGeorgia O’Keefe Museum. Santa FeGeorgia O’Keefe MuseumGeorgia O’Keefe MuseumLoretto Chapel. Santa FeLoretto Chapel“The staircase at Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico is famous because it’s an architectural marvel that defies physics and is surrounded by mystery” GoogleSan Miguel Church. Santa FeSan Miguel ChurchSan Miguel Church“The bell’s date of casting is disputed, and its origins are also uncertain, but it is said to be cast in Spain in 1356.” Google. San Miguel Chapel.Santa Fe CapitolBuffalo by Holly Hughes. Santa Fe CapitolSanta Fe CapitolCross of Martyrs. Santa FeThe view from Cross of MartyrsLithograph print at the New Mexico Museum of ArtNew Mexico Museum of ArtNew Mexico Museum of ArtThe Vladem Contemporary Art MuseumThe Vladem Contemporary Art MuseumArt by Ken Price. The Vladem Contemporary Art MuseumSITE Santa FeSITE Santa FeSITE Santa FeSanta Fe Botanical GardenSanta Fe Botanical GardenSanta Fe Botanical GardenMuseum of Indian Arts and CultureMuseum of Indian Arts and CultureMultiple Visions: A Common Bond. Museum of International Folk ArtBetween the Lines: Prison Art & AdvocacyLa Cartoneria Mexicana / The Mexican Art of Paper and PasteiNgqikithi yokuPhica / Weaving Meanings: Telephone Wire Art from South AfricaHiking some of the Atalaya Trail near St. John’s College in Santa FeViews from the Atalaya TrailMore gorgeous viewsSky Railway Sunset SerenadeViews from the trainIt was a perfect evening!Chimayo ChapelChimayoOn our way to TaosRio Grande Gorge BridgeViews over the Rio GrandeRio Grande RiverMore Rio GrandeOn the way to BandelierOn the way to BandelierOn the way to BandelierJust inside of Bandelier National Monument ParkBandelier National MonumentBandelier cliff dwellings BandelierView from the cliff dwellings at BandelierDave visiting one of the dwellingsPetroglyphs. The indigenous peoples raised turkeys for food. Can never get enough of this amazing place!Painted Lady Bed and Brew in AlbuquerqueInside the rail car bar at Painted Lady Bed and BrewNew Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science in ABQ
After five and a half lovely weeks at home in the Midwest, seeing friends and celebrating the holidays with family, we made our way back to Santa Fe, New Mexico on December 28th. We came here for our first time almost a year ago, Jan 14th 2024, during our cross country road trip. We immediately fell in love with this area. The sun always shines, the mountains are beautiful and everyone we met radiated positive energy.
One of my friends who has been living abroad a lot longer than I have said that every time you come home it gets easier/different and that was true to our experience this time. I mentioned in my last post that this time being home felt very different from when we were home in May. In May, because of everything that I mentioned, I was ready to leave for Europe come June 1st. This time it was harder to say goodbye, and easier somehow because now we know what to expect. Does that make sense? It is never easy being away from family and friends, especially when you’re fortunate enough to have a circle like ours. And, we are excited for the adventure to continue.
Since we’ve been in Santa Fe and we have quickly been reminded how interesting some Air BnB experiences can be. The place that we have been in since we arrived is lovely and comfortable and in a great location. When the host welcomed us she promptly informed us of all the horrible things that previous renters have done and made me very nervous about touching or moving anything. There are sharp knives which is a bonus, but there aren’t any surfaces void of clutter to cut the vegetables. Our host is coming into our space to clean and we have to be out of the house while she is there. Which is a first and honestly feels a little odd. I’m at the library right now and Dave is at a coffee shop. The “designated workspace” that Dave is supposed to use to work was covered with magazines and pottery and dolls. We had to move the dolls so Dave could work and were respectful in telling her that before she came in to clean today and she got very upset! I just feel like if you have something that is that sacred don’t put it in your Air BnB. Amiright?!
Anyway, after all her messages and expressions of concern, the fact that she called Dave and scolded him for wanting to keep her things safe by moving them, we have had enough. In hindsight we should’ve just moved the dolls back before she came in and no one would’ve been the wiser. And, my friend pointed out, that if it wasn’t that she’d probably find something else to complain about, so it is good we know now. So, on Saturday we’re going to move to a hotel that has a kitchen and we won’t have to worry about breathing wrong. We’ll celebrate giving ourselves what we need by getting a couple’s massage! This is all part of the adventure and I guess I was just a little surprised how quickly we were reminded of that. ?
In spite of it all, I’m glad we decided to come back to New Mexico before we continue the adventure in South America. In the first few days that we’ve been here we’ve noticed several differences. Which makes sense because the only constant is change. I think the awareness of these differences comes from the fact that we have grown so much since we were last here. A year ago we had just come off of the emotional toll it took on us being away from our immediate family for the holidays, then we moved into the second most disgusting Air BnB we’ve experienced this entire adventure, in New Orleans. Those combined events definitely didn’t create a space for me to be my best self. Experiencing New Years Eve in Santa Fe this year felt like the perfect place to celebrate how much we’ve grown together. I am someone who believes that every year, no matter what the universe throws at me, is better than the one before. I believe that even during the hardest times, we’re given an opportunity to grow, learn and make changes. I embrace to opportunity to honor my truth and rid my life of what no longer serves me.
One change that we’ve noticed is our ambition to walk a lot longer to get somewhere. After the time we spent in Europe, without a car the majority of the time, walking is the main thing we would do. It was our way of exploring and I actually missed walking during the time we were home. Granted it was a lot colder in the Midwest than Portugal, or basically any of the countries we visited in Europe.
We’ll be in Santa Fe for two more weeks and are hoping to do things that we didn’t last time especially since we don’t have a car this time around. Visit the farmers and makers markets, do some hiking, and we made reservations for the sunset train ride on the Sky Railway. I’m going to take the train to Albuquerque (ABQ) on Tuesday to visit a friend and then on the 18th we will move to Albuquerque for a few days. We’re renting a car for the weekend so that I can show Dave some of the amazing sites outside of Santa Fe that he didn’t get to experience last time. We hope to go to Los Alamos-where they designed and built the world’s first atomic weapons, Bandelier National Monument-where you can visit the homes of Ancestral Puebloans and Madrid-a quaint town on the Turquoise Trail. Another day I hope to bring him to Chimayo, Taos and the Rio Grande River Gorge Bridge. I’m really looking forward to visiting those places again and sharing them with Dave. I’m also looking forward to having some time in ABQ to explore that we didn’t have last time.
I am grateful that our adventure is continuing and I welcome whatever 2025 brings our way because I know that we’re in it together. Sending you love wherever you are!
Alison 🙂
“Do you know the way to Santa Fe?” Santa Fe RailyardSanta Fe mosaic mural Our Lady of GuadalupeOne of the beautiful sunsetsLights on the Santa Fe PlazaLuminarias or Farolitos decorating the Pueblo Bonito InnStature of HopeSculptures on the Santa Fe River Trail Mountain ViewSanta Fe Railyard ParkNew Years Eve on Santa Fe PlazaThe zia sun symbolThe Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of AssisiAn interesting sculpture on the way to Amelia White Park Amelia White Park Ten Thousand Waves SpaIzanami Restaurant at Ten Thousand Waves Izanami at night
One year ago we were in Charleston, South Carolina. It was hard spending the holidays away from family so we decided that moving forward, whenever possible, we want to be intentional about being home.
We returned to Minnesota on November 20th after a lovely week in the Azores and a few days visiting friends in Boston. Being home has been good for the soul.
This visit feels better than when we were home in May. Obviously seeing friends and family was wonderful, and it felt overshadowed by the stress of having to find new tenants, several doctors appointments-including my first colonoscopy which meant being put under for the first time since my bilateral mastectomy, and everything else that comes with preparing for being in Europe for the next five plus months.
This time our tenants are happy and well and there aren’t as many doctors appointments which is a nice change. The appointment I needed to have was with the travel doctor in preparation for our next leg of the adventure set to take place in Mexico, South America and Central America.
On December 28th, after spending Christmas in both Oconomowoc to see Dave’s family, and Woodbury to celebrate with mine, we leave for New Mexico. After loving our time there so much last year we decided we wanted to go back before we traveled further south. So far we have planned through March. After New Mexico we will go to Mexico City for a couple of weeks, then Santiago, Chile, Buenos Aires, Argentina and Patagonia. The plan is to be gone until the end of June/ beginning of July. The only country in South America that we have visited was Peru back in 2018, so we’re excited to explore more countries we haven’t been to, and I’m excited to work on my Spanish.
Wherever you are, whatever your traditions may be, I hope this season brings you joy and happiness. Tell your people you love them, make it weird. Hug your loved ones. Sending you love wherever you are!
Ermida de Mãe de Deus (Hermitage of the Mother of God) Ponta Delgada, Azores, PortugalQuinta do Agricultor-Ponta DelgadaBar HistoricoPortuguese cows definitely fit the cuteness bill Walking Trail – Rocha da RelvaWalking Trail – Rocha da RelvaThis days walking adventure in Ponta Delgada ended with a record 29, 563 steps!Street art by YvesGruta do Carvão – Monumento NaturalGruta do Carvão – Monumento Natural <3Wave breaking tetrapods Farol de Santa ClaraParque Atlantico Shopping MallDriving around the island of São MiguelLagoa das Sete CidadesMiradouro da Ponta do EscalvadoMosteiros Lost Castle of Mosteiros Sao Miguel AzoresLost Castle of Mosteiros MosteirosPorto FormosoIgreja de Nossa Senhora da Alegria – Furnasvejo você em breve (see you soon) Old South Church in BostonPublic Garden-Boston, MassachusettsBoston Common: Park Street StationBoston Logan International Airport. In my opinion, too cute to not post.“The Calling” Loon statue at Allianz Field-Saint Paul, MNBest New Restaurant and Esquire’s Chef of the Year-Vanai and Chef Yia Vang-Minneapolis, MNTimberwolves game at Target CenterAnthony Edwards mural at Modist Brewing-Minneapolis, MNHFamily Christmas Tree #1Family Christmas Tree #2Family Christmas Tree #3
It has been three weeks since my last post. Longer than I normally allow myself to go, and I gave myself permission to wait last week because I knew there would be more to say.
I knew I wanted “having a full heart” to be the message/ title of this post after just one week in Lisbon. Initially, I wasn’t sure about the messaging after what the American people, we, have been going through this past week. Then after reading Kamala Harris’s post on Instagram the day after the election, “My heart is full today- full of gratitude for the trust you have placed in me, full of love for our country, and full of resolve.” I knew it was the message I wanted to pass on. The alternative just isn’t an option for me.
I haven’t been shy about who I voted for in this election. It has been a difficult few days and my heart goes out to everyone regardless of where they land. To be honest I have been grateful to not be in the US during this election cycle. Western media and propaganda are impossible to get away from, and in the aftermath of the results, I feel guilty about that. And, I am reminding myself that what I always say and believe still rings true, multiple things can exist at the same time, even in times of disappointment and sorrow. I can be grateful and enraged. I can show compassion and love and still have questions. Our differences are what make us uniquely human. I wouldn’t want us to all be the same and if I didn’t feel that way I wouldn’t be honoring myself or this experience. I have done what I can control by voting absentee and I must not become idle. I have seen the quote from Martin Luther King Jr. being shared as a reminder “only in the darkness can you see the stars.” In spite of it all that is what I have resolved to do. I need to continue to be a light to those around me, the one I hope to see in the world.
We finished off our three weeks in Bergen with a full week of rain. Which is part of the reason there wasn’t much to report. I’m glad we went and experienced the beauty of Norway and with minimal interactions outside of each other, and barely being able to afford to do much outside of what was free, I was ready to go to Portugal!
We will be home in 9 days!!!! After two incredible weeks in Lisbon we are now in the city of Ponta Delgada on the island of São Miguel, which is part of the Açores (Azores), in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean. With how fast time has been flying I am doing my best to remain present and grounded in gratitude.
I don’t know if it was coming off of the lack of warmth in Norway but Portugal has warmed my heart in a way that I haven’t felt since Scotland. The architecture and weather are beautiful and the way people have opened up to us has filled my soul.
The first week in Lisbon we mainly explored all the wonderful things to see in the city. One thing that Lisbon has a lot of, besides amazing architecture that is covered in beautiful tiles, are Miradouros. Which are open squares that offer amazing views of the city from above. One of the days I took the ferry across the river and explored a little of Cacilhas. It was recommended by a woman we met at an outdoor festival on Sunday to go over there and try the vinho verde and some seafood. So that it what I did and I enjoyed both very much.
On Friday the 1st I took a day trip to the gorgeous coastal town of Cascais. The weather was perfect and walking along the coast was exactly what the doctor ordered. On my way back I got off at Belém so I could see the Torre de Belém and the Jeronimos Monastery which were very cool!
On Saturday the 2nd Dave was in charge of the plans. After breakfast we took a tour of the Estádio do Benfica where the Portuguese football (soccer) club Benfica plays. I wasn’t expecting a lot and was completely blown away by how spectacular it was! We got to see the press room, locker room and we’re even able to go down on the field. They also had a pretty impressive museum with a massive amount of trophies dating back to 1904.
After the stadium we made our way to the MAAT – Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology in the Santa Maria se Belém area of Lisbon along the Tagus river. Another impressive museum. We finished our day with dinner at the Time Out Market, which is a kind of food hall, and almost 15,000 steps!
On Sunday the 3rd it was my turn to plan so I brought us to the magical town of Sintra that was recommended by a friend, and magical it was. I did some research and tried to avoid the crowds by getting off one stop early because someone on the internet said that the bus that brings you to the National Palace of Pena also stops there, and that was incorrect. Luckily Uber works great in Portugal and is very inexpensive so we took an Uber there instead to avoid the 55 minute steep uphill climb. It all worked out in the end because we had the most amazing driver that gave us some very helpful tips and he truly set the tone for the wonderful day ahead. After visiting the outside of the palace we chose to walk back down to the town, re: our driver’s recommendation, and I’m so glad we did. The hike was beautiful and we were able to get views of The Moorish Castle, Villa Sassetti, and the National Palace of Sintra along the way. When we arrived in Old Town we wandered around the cute streets and found a craft beer bar that had delicious beer and food. We have been drinking mostly lager so it is always a treat to find a nice hoppy beer.
After that we walked around town more, we did a porto tasting at Bar Do Binho, and then walked along the river to see the Fuente Morisca de Sintra and the Câmara Municipal de Sintra. On our way to the Câmara Municipal there were vendors selling their wares. We met a man selling designs on little pieces of wood and one of them had my favorite image and quote from The Little Prince on it. We started talking with the man and he was explaining how his wife does the design and he does the painting. I showed him the tattoo I have of the same image and he shared how important the story is to him and his wife, instantly forming a connection. He insisted upon gifting me with the piece of art when I asked how much it was and I was extremely humbled by his generosity. It just goes to show that taking time to interact with people you don’t know can make all the difference in the world.
We finished off the day at Incomum which is an adorable wine bar where we met Ricardo who is the person that taught me the phrase that is the title of this post. We learned the vinho verde can also be red and has to be from a specific region in Portugal similar to how champagne has to come from that region of France to be called champagne. We ate some amazing melted sheep’s cheese with toast and scallops with risotto. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. It was a lovely way to finish a magical day.
On Thursday the 7th I took my second solo trip of this adventure to Porto for the night. So many people have talked about how incredible Porto is and with Lisbon only a three hour train ride away I thought I would be silly to miss it. I’m SO glad I took the trip as Porto is gorgeous! I found a really nice apartment hotel in a great location for only $75 a night and was able to check in early. I dropped off my bag and headed out to explore. I saw the Miradouro da Vitoria, Livraria Lello which is said to have been used as inspiration for Harry Potter, Torre dos Clérigos, Jardim da Cordoaria, Igreja do carmelitas, Porto São Bento which is one of the most gorgeous train stations I’ve ever seen, and the Sé do Porto which is the cathedral. Then I walked across the Dom Luis I bridge to Gaia. I walked along the river taking in the view of the Douro River, peeping at vendors and listening to music along the way. That night I had a delicious meal of gnocchi at Porta 4 which was conveniently located right around the corner from my hotel. I feel like it is important to have solo adventures in the middle of adventures together as it is nice to have a chance to miss each other too.
Our last night in Lisbon we went to Cooking Lisbon for a Portuguese cooking class that Dave found while he was researching things to do in Lisbon. I am not very well versed in cooking so I was a little hesitant at first since we have never taken a cooking class before. The nerves instantly disappeared once we arrived and met our amazingly gracious instructor Filipa and the two other couples taking the class with us. The food was delicious and everyone was incredibly warm and friendly. I feel like the universe definitely brought us together for a reason.
Now, as I mentioned, we are in Porta Delgada for the week. We have a really nice Air BnB in a great location and are excited to explore everything there is to see and do while we’re here. We went to the botanical garden yesterday and walked around town and through the port. Last night we found a wine and chestnut festival just a block away that had delicious food and local music. Dave is taking Friday off and we’re going to rent a car to explore more of the island outside of the city. We’re hoping to go to the nature preserve, see some of the lakes and waterfalls, maybe visit the volcano region and swim in some hot springs. It should be lovely. Then on Saturday we’ll fly to Boston to visit some friends for a few days before we are back in MN on the 20th. The European part of the adventure has been truly wonderful. We have a better understanding now of the places we definitely want to return to and the ones that we’re good with for a while. All of it has been good for lessons in growth and understanding and I wouldn’t trade any of our experiences. We’re excited for time at home with family and friends over the holidays and are excited for whatever the future has in store for us.
Thank you for following along on our journey. Sending you a universe of love wherever you are!
Alison 🙂
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte (Lady of the Hill). You can see the 25 April Bridge in the distance which the Bay Bridge in California is modeled after.The view of Castelo de São Jorge from Miradouro da Senhora do MonteArco da Rua Augusta-LisbonLer Devagar Bookstore. One of the coolest bookstores I’ve been to. In the LX Factory which is an awesome outdoor market in Lisbon that has several bars, restaurants and shops. Chickens in the parkBeautiful sunset on Halloween Parque Eduardo VII-LisbonOn the ferry to CacilhasCacilhasCascaisCascaisCasa de Santa María, CascaisBoca do Inferno cliff formation -CascaisBoca do Inferno cliff formation -CascaisMonument to the Overseas Combatants-BelémTorre de BelémThe Jeronimos Monastery-BelémBenfica Stadium-LisbonBenfica StadiumThe beautiful mascots of BenficaSome of the many trophies inside the museum at BenficaSculpture outside of the MAAT on the Tagus River with a view of the 25 April Bridge and the Santuário de Cristo Rei statueArtistas Da Diaspora Africana- MAAT- LisbonArtwork by Cantika Abigail for the Black Ancient Futures exhibit at the MAATVivian Suter exhibit at the MAATMore cool stuff inside of the massive museumTime Out LisbonPena Palace- SintraPena PalacePena PalaceThe Moorish CastleParque y Palacio Biester-Walking from the Pena Palace to Old Town SintraVilla Sassetti-SintraNational Palace of SintraSintraFuente Morisca de Sintravou de coração cheioCâmara Municipal de SintraFuente Luminosa-LisbonFuente Luminosa- LisbonView from the Miradouro de Santa Luzia-LisbonCemitério do Alto de São João-LisbonCemitério do Alto de São João-LisbonChafariz d’El-Rei is the first public fountain in the city of LisbonView of the castle from Topo Marim MonizJosé Tomás de Sousa Martins. He is honored because he worked intensively and mostly for free in the fight against tuberculosis.Stained glass window inside of the Sé de Lisboa (Lisbon Cathedral)Sé de LisboaSé de Lisboa-Pope’s ChapelThe view of the cathedral from the Miradouro da Vitoria-PortoPorto São BentoTorre dos Clérigos-PortoThe Igreja de Santo Ildefonso (Church of Saint Ildefonso)-PortoPorto Cathedral SquareCrossing the Douro River on the Luís I Bridge-PortoThe view of Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar from the Luís I Bridge-PortoThe view of Porto from GaiaPorto waterfrontLuís I Bridge from the Gaia waterfrontPorto at nightPorto CathedralOur amazing instructors at Cooking LisbonArriving on the island of São MiguelJardim Botânico António Borges (Botanical Garden)Jardim Botânico António Borges (Botanical Garden)Igreja do Colégio dos Jesuítas-Church in Ponta DelgadaMuseu Carlos Machado-Ponta DelgadaPortas da Cidade-Ponta DelgadaFuerte de San BlasMilitary Museum at Fuerte de San BlasIgreja Matriz de São Sebastião (Catholic Church)-Ponta Delgada
I feel like there are a lot of people, especially those who have never traveled, that live in a binary world. Traveling makes that virtually impossible. Life in general makes that way of thinking impossible. When you are open to ways of life that are different from your own you realize that it is okay to have a binary thought be your first just don’t let it be your last. I learned a version of that concept from Sharroky Hollie while I was teaching. You have to live in the pivot.
It is OK to not have every single minute of every single experience be amazing!
You’ve heard me say multiple times, that multiple things can exist at the same time. Welp, everyday I’m reminded profoundly how true that is.
On the 13th, Dave and I hiked our second of the seven mountains of Bergen, Mount Lyderhorn. It is the one we can see straight out of our apartment window. Dave was in Amsterdam for a convention the 8th-11th, and when he only has weekends off, that is when exploring happens, rain or shine. Well, that weekend all it did was rain. Since we’ve been here, we have learned that, on average, Bergen has over 200 days of rain, and October is the most rainy. Honestly, had we had this knowledge before we came, we still would’ve come. It is gorgeous here!
Hiking in the rain, depending on the trail conditions, can be fine. This experience was pretty miserable. And, because it was raining the entire hike, the conditions got worse on the way back down. Picture walking through a muddy, rocky stream, downhill for over an hour.
Was I glad that Dave and I spent the day together and hiked our second mountain?
Yes!
And,
Did we have zero view at the top, did I fall several times, twist my ankle, put my foot in a muddy hole up to my knee and have my feet be pruney for no less than five hrs?
Yes.
Multiple things can exist at the same time, and it is OK to be honest about it. It definitely reminded me of the children’s book Alexander and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day “Some days are like that. Even in Australia!” ?
If you know my heart, you know that if I complain about something, I’m praising it the same amount! If not more.
As my friend told me, “Earth school is wild!”
This past week, our second of three, was gorgeous so I took advantage of the weather and climbed three more mountains bringing my total to five.
Monday: I hiked Sandviksfjellet.
I took the Stoltzekleiven steps, only 908 compared to the 1333 of Ulriken. The steps are steep stones so, even though it was beautiful, I was happy I found an alternate route down.
Tuesday: I hiked Fløyfjellet or Fløyen and then went on to Rundemanen from there.
Once I had reached the summit of Fløyen I was very close, considering, to the starting point of Rundemanen. And, it had a really nice, clearly marked path to follow. I’m so glad I took the opportunity to continue up Rundemanen as well. The view was incredible! I need to find better adjectives, and I was in awe of the beauty.
I really wanted to do all seven mountains, and after researching the final two (Damsgårdfjellet and Løvstakken) I learned that they are steep, can be muddy and slippery, and don’t have clearly marked trails/ I should use a guide. I decided that it is in my best interest to stay safe and be happy with the five.
Initially, Dave was planning on taking Friday off and when the forecast showed rain we changed our plans to take a fjord ferry on Wednesday instead, because we really wanted to have him be able to have one adventure without being wet, and I’m SO glad we did!
We took the Hardangerfjord Express Ferry to Rosendal because it was a 16th of the price of an official fjord tour and it was absolutely beautiful. The weather was perfect. The sun was shining and we even had a warm breeze. We came back the same day so we only had a few hours in Rosendal. This was fine though because the views from the ferry were a huge part of the experience, and we made the most of every minute.
The landscape of Rosendal was truly spectacular with the mountains and the waterfalls. We began by hiking to the Hattebergfossen waterfall. We walked along the creek and through fields with sheep that provided incredible views of the Malmangernuten and Skeisfjell mountains.
After visiting the waterfall we walked through the Steinparken (Stone Park) and then made our way to Elins Matgleder for lunch. We knew we were going to be splurging on lunch because everything is expensive and it was worth every penny! I had probably the most delicious fish and chips I’ve ever had and Dave enjoyed his chicken sandwich as well. It was definitely the best food we’ve had since Glasgow. Especially since I have only mastered frozen pizza, mac n cheese and spaghetti. ?
On Friday I hiked to Troldhaugen, the home of Edvard Grieg, a famous Norwegian composer. The house was in a lovely location right on the shores of Smaholmane Bay. It was another beautiful day. We really were fortunate last week with only one day of rain.
Saturday, we got lucky with our first weekend day without rain so I brought Dave up Mount Fløyen so he could experience the view. Then we did more exploring around town. It was a wonderful day and it was so nice to spend it together.
We have one more week in Norway before we head to Lisbon, Portugal. Even though it is expensive and rainy here I’m glad we came. It has been awesome to do so much hiking and exploring of Norway’s beautiful landscape. I will say I’m a little sad that I have found Norwegians to not be as open and friendly as I had hoped. We haven’t made any friends and no on has chatted us up. It has been kind of disappointing especially after experiencing the generous spirit of Scotland. We did a little research on this, and it said that once you get to know Norwegians, they are very welcoming, which is probably true of many cultures, just not what we’ve experienced thus far. And, now we know.
It is hard to believe that we will be back in MN in just over four weeks! Time is a flyin’! I am so excited to see our family and friends again. After being away from them last year for the holidays, I’m can’t wait to be able to celebrate with them this year. I’m also looking forward to being home without having to find new tenants and have a million appointments. I’m hoping this fact spreads a blanket of peace over all of it. I intend to stay grounded in gratitude every step of the way and enjoy every minute until then.
Sending you a universe of love, wherever you are!
Alison️
Climbing up Lyderhorn. The creek seen to the right had completely covered those rocks by the time we made our way down. ?Dave. He said it looked like I was climbing the volcano of Mordor from Lord of the Rings ?The view that I imagined was incredible from the top of LyderhornLyderhornFrom Google “Once you reach the summit, you’ll enjoy a panoramic view over Askøy, Sotra, and Bergen. Additionally, to the east, you can catch a glimpse of the Folgefonna glacier.” Beautiful! The beginning of Mount Sandviksfjellet and the 908 StoltzekleivenThe gorgeous view from the top of Mount SandviksfjelletMore incredible views from the top of Mount SandviksfjelletMunkebotsvatnet Dam coming down from Mount SandviksfjelletLake StorevatnetThe view from Mount FløyenThe view of Mount Lynderhorn from Mount FløyenThe views heading up Mount RundemanenThe top of RundemanenThe view of Mount Ulriken (our first mountain) from RundemanenMore beauty from RundemanenOn the way down from RundemanenThe sunrise over Mount Ulriken from the port in Bergen as we’re waiting to catch our ferry to Rosendal (Good Omens)Views from the Hardangerfjord Express Ferry on the way to RosendalOn the way to RosendalOn the way to RosendalOn the way to RosendalEntering the Hardanger FjordApproaching RosendalMount Malmangernuten in RosendalRosendalSkeisfjell Mountains in RosendalMount MalmangernutenSkeisfjell MountainsI imagine these sheep have a very good life 🙂When I was little and I would ask my parents where I was before I was born they always told me that “I was in Norway picking apples.” ? This is where I imagine that was!Hattebergfossen WaterfallSteinparkenSteinparkenSteinparkenSteinparken Treehouse?Dave. The wind picked up right as he was taking a picture of the main street in Rosendal with Mount Malmangernuten in the background. Our ferry waiting to bring us back to BergenTroldhaugen. Built in 1885.Troldhaugen Concert HallThe views from outside TroldhaugenEdvard Grieg’s composing cabinA life sized statue of Edvard GriegThe view of the Troldhaugen peninsula from the waterNear where Edvard Grieg is buriedInside Troldhaugen. This space was originally where the maids slept.Drawings and photographs of Edvard Grieg. His umbrella and his walking cane. This bust of Edvard Grieg made by Ambrosia Tønnesen who is considered the first professional female sculptor in Norway. Edvard Grieg’s pianoThis beautiful stained glass window was a gift from Edvard to his wife NinaOur first weekend day without rain calls for exploring around BergenThe fall colors have been beautiful!Corps de Garde. The highest point on the Nordnes PeninsulaKnøsesmauet Street
From the hikes, to the excursions, from the transitions between towns, to the hotels, busses, planes and the delicious food, we truly couldn’t have asked for a better experience. It was a once in a lifetime trip and I hope we make it back someday!
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